The Purple Penguin

Or we went to the Vatican today (ooo look, the Sistine Chapel!).

Up stupidly early – 5am – as I got breakfast tickets for the Vatican. Slightly less than the early morning “open the museum” tickets, but still very early! (So the open the museum is you show up at 6am and get to follow around the person who unlocks the doors and turns on the lights – but you have to email for prices and availability so . . . ) I got us the 7:15 breakfast and then museum entrance at 8am. We got there far too early and had to wait so walked around the walls a bit. Then in for breakfast.

When they let you in, there is a museum guard waiting for you and you follow him through security, then to the ticket office to pick up museum tickets and vouchers for breakfast and audio guides. We waited for a bit for everyone to get through security and sort tickets, then followed the guide up into the museum. We were led out onto a terrace where we could see the dome of St Peter’s in the fog, then when everyone had got to the terrace we were led to the restaurant for breakfast. Unfortunately too cold and foggy for breakfast in the Pinecone Courtyard!

Breakfast is ok and there is plenty of it, but I wanted to get started on the museum. However, they have guards at all the entrances – like people are going to sneak away from breakfast to see stuff. Humph. 

Once they finally freed us to roam, we headed up only to find many of the galleries still closed. So we decided to go to the Sistine Chapel first while it was still a bit quiet and before the tour groups started. Got to see a bit, especially the long corridors, and down into the Chapel which is lovely. Several other people had the same idea so it was busy, but not crowded (though there was one annoying tour guide waving his flag on a stick and nearly hitting us in the head!) In fact, after looking around we were allowed to go back the way we’d come in to go see the apartments (Rafael and Borgia rooms). This led us to a different way to the Sistine Chapel (we went up the stairs rather than down). The Rafaels and Borgia rooms were interesting, though the modern art wasn’t as interesting to us. The Chapel was actually less busy this second time so we took our time looking at everything.

There are two exits to the Chapel (and you really shouldn’t do what we did the first time and go back through the entrance!) one is for visitors and the other for tour groups. The tour group exit actually takes you to St Peter’s Basilica – a sneaky way around that means you don’t have to walk all the way around the country to the Basilica entrance and join the huge queue. But we took the individual exit as I wanted to see the rest of the museum. We got rid of the audio guides at a leave point as we weren’t using them and headed back into the museum to see everything We didn’t manage everything, but managed a fair bit before Joe had had enough. This time the Sistine Chapel was packed (yes, we saw it three times), the guards were telling people to keep moving, not to stop, don’t take pictures, no guides talking! So we moved through the crowds had a quick look, and ducked out the guided tours exit.

This takes you to a courtyard and you go across the front of the Basilica to the entrance. We managed to work our way through the crowds to see the Pieta, then had a look at the rest of the building. Found the monument to ‘James III’ of England – recognised by the Pope but not the UK. And then headed down to the crypts and out. 

We then walked along the river and back to the hotel. Wanted to see Michaelangelo’s Moses, but went past the church and decided not to go back. So we’ll try to do that tomorrow. Had another lovely meal, but missed gelato again! 

Or walking on the Appian Way.

But last night Joe ate tomatoes! Raw tomatoes! I think he may have been replaced by a pod person. We ended up in a little Trattoria around the corner from the hotel for dinner. They were pretty laid back, but served lots of good food. When they came to get our order they plonked down a plate of bruschetta – large slices of toast covered in garlic and tomato and Joe ate his. And his meal was served with tomatoes which he also ate (well, not the sliced ones around the outside of the plate). Joe ordered a pudding and they delivered it to the table with two spoons which was nice. Just a really nice place and not at all expensive.

So we slept in this morning. So late we missed hotel breakfast. Went to get transport tickets and had a very nice man at the tobacconist shop (where you buy tickets) give us directions and advice. Walked forever to get to the bus stop (probably about half the distance to the Appian Way!). Stopped to get a coffee and had a brioche bun (standing up :)). Got the 218 to the top of the way, headed into the tourist info shop which was heaving with people renting bikes and got a map and advice where to go. 

The first bit of the walk was a bit like I imagined but fewer ruins and an asphalt paved road. And don’t believe ‘no traffic on Sundays’ there are a lot of buses and private cars still. I really didn’t notice any lack of traffic. And the place does get busy with cyclists and walkers. We didn’t go into any of the catacombs, but did go into the Circus of Maxentius, Tomb of Caecilia Metella, and the Capo di Bove baths. The road wasn’t at all like I imaged. There are still a lot of modern homes along the road, so it’s pretty much like other roads around Rome, just a few more rocky areas. It probably gets better further along, but we turned off to head toward the aqueducts and the metro. 

We didn’t see the aqueducts, but did find the Via Latina which is another little stretch of ancient Roman road. It doesn’t have the original stones of the ancient road (or we didn’t see any), but otherwise looked more like what I thought the Appian Way would look like, with huge old tombs lining the way. The tombs are supposed to be really interesting inside, but you have to book in advance so we didn’t get. Still the outside was nice.

By this time we were completely tired so headed back to the hotel by metro. After a rest we headed out to eat at that place we couldn’t get into last night (they were booked solid) and it was worth going back as the food was very good. I had a pizza bowl which was interesting. Tomorrow we are up very very early so off to sleep early!

So, everything says to do the Colosseum first, then go to the forum. But when I looked at tickets I couldn’t get tickets for the morning – not on any of the tours. Couldn’t get a below the scenes tour at all, in any language. But could get a Panoramic view tour in English at 13:35. This ticket covered standard entrance to the Forum/Palatine Hill and the Colosseum with a tour up to the fifth level. So went for that and going against all the advice decided to do the Forum in the morning and Colosseum in the afternoon. Yeah.

Up early due to a family on the same floor that all yell at each other. Or are just very very loud. So up and breakfast and headed out to the Forum getting there as it opened. Think we were some of the first through the gate (Joe thinks we were about the third) and the very helpful staff told us which Colosseum entrance to go to at 13:00. After looking at the map, decided to head straight up Palatine Hill. Where I discovered the Palatine museum entrance is actually in the ticketed area and you can’t get to it from outside. Well drat. So we didn’t see that as it was an extra charge and not included in our ticket. None of the interiors were covered. So we walked all over the hill –  the entire area is huge. Then down through the 16th/17th century gardens which had been restored (and only opened a year ago),  the Farnese Gardens, to the forum. We walked through the forum, but it was getting near 12:00 so we did that quickly and along to the exit. 

Found a place for a drink and pizza. Expensive as it was by the Colosseum but we were expecting that and the pizza was actually quite good. Then back to ancient Rome and our tour!

However, when we got to the gate we were given a sticker then told to come back at 13:40. Oh. We could have seen more of the Forum (Joe sighed). So we sat and chatted to a bloke visiting from San Fransico, before joining the other tourists waiting for our tour. Then off into the Colosseum!

The Belvedere tour is good. I’d like to have combined it with the tour that goes under the arena, but just the Belvedere is very good. You go in a separate entrance, but then join the crowds on the first level to walk around to the gate that leads up. From that level on, it’s just the Colosseum tour groups!  IT goes right up to the fifth level where you have an excellent view over the entire area, as well as views out over Rome on each of the levels you stop on. It’s well worth doing. As well you get lots of information about the building and the area. We both really enjoyed it. When the tour ends you can spend time wandering around the open areas of the Colosseum. So we walked around and saw the lower levels before leaving.

We then headed back to the hotel the long way – down toward the Circus Maximus, along the Circus which is now a park, then around the Forum behind the Capitoline Museums and then along to the hotel, stopping for some wonderful gelato on the way – Joe got lemon, vanilla and dark chocolate and I had the totally weird selection of Sour black cherry, mango and pistachio. Weird but very very good. My favorite was which ever I was eating at the time. 

That’s Joe’s title. Not mine. 

We walked today. Well, today isn’t over, but we’ll be doing more walking this evening. We started out on the metro though to the Vatican – we did that today because Monday we’ll be doing it again at stupid o’clock. Found the nearest metro station and headed for the ticket machine where I watched the people in front of me. Then decided to figure out where we were going before getting a ticket. Once we found a map of the metro and figured out which stop we wanted, we went back to the machines only to discover that the tickets are by time rather than station. oh well. We got the cheap 100 minute ticket and followed the crowds down to the platform. Joe wanted to keep following the crowds onto the train but we figured out it was going the wrong way. Once on the correct train it was normal riding along until we got to cross the Tiber. 

What the guide sites don’t tell you is that once you get off the metro there are touts every few inches telling you where to go. Then try to sell you a tour. We got a bit tired of saying no thanks, we know, ta, etc. They are really insistent on pointing out you’re going the wrong way cause the Vatican Museums are up that way. But we wanted to go to the basilica then along to Castel Sant Angelo and walk along the river – and we were going the correct way for that. It got very annoying very quickly! And the entire time we were outside the Basilica getting photos and gawking, touts were coming up to us to get us in past the queues. You’d say no to one and the next standing right behind him would then come up. 

So we dodged the touts, got a couple of photos and started walking away from the church – when you head away from everything they start to leave you alone. Yay. We slowly walked to the river, getting photos, and along to the Castel which is very impressive. We headed down to the walk around the building, then back up to the river side walk and continued along the Tiber. Crossed the river at the Ponte Cavour where there’s a museum with the Arca Pacis (peace alter). It’s a large white glass museum and you can see the large stone alter inside. We didn’t go in, but instead walked around the Mausoleum of Agosoto, which is currently closed for restoration. 

We then headed up to the Piazza del Popolo. Sat for a minute while Joe got photos and had a look around. We went into the Basilica Parrocchiale Santa Maria del Popolo and saw the Caravaggio (The Conversion of Saul). We didn’t go into the Leonardo Museum, but have heard it’s good. Instead we headed up to the Terrazza del Pincio where we stopped for the best view of Rome (or so it is said, and it is a very good view!) More photos and looking around. It was getting warm (even for me) so we stopped at a cafe we saw for drinks and some cake. Casina Valadier which is a lovely place to stop – we sat outside and had some of the best coffee and a lovely cheesecake, plus the nibbles they put out when you sit down. 

After that well needed break we headed to the top of the Spanish Steps, headed down to the Piazza Spagna, then backtracked to the Via Margutta, before turning around and heading back toward our hotel. We walked along the Giardini del Quirinale, but didn’t see any of it – just the very large wall around it! The bit we came to the road actually goes under the gardens – we took the small road that curves up to the main road in front of the gardens, but then turned away from the gardens to head back toward the hotel. A slow stroll to the hotel than a rest.

After our rest and a wash, we headed back out so Joe could get some sunset photos around the Colosseum. Again, a ton of touts and people hassling you to buy crap. Joe was focusing the camera and some bloke just shoved whatever he was trying to flog into the view – want to see Joe get annoyed? That’s how you do it. It was a lovely walk down through a park and then a walk around the Colosseum and up to look at some of the forum. Then we headed back through the park and up toward our hotel in a different direction. 

Stopped for a really nice meal – an artichoke starter that was lovely and very different, and Joe had an excellent carbonara. Now back at the room and stuffed!

Our hotel has different Italian renaissance paintings on the room doors and in our room we have the same painting that is on our door on our ceiling – Fall of Phaethon.

Guess where we are! 

Stayed at Gatwick last night – had dinner at home then headed out to Gatwick, but as the Gatwick Express was running late or even cancelling trains it took us a bit longer then we planned. But it was just to get to the hotel and sleep before flying out the following day, so.

Up early, drop off keys, head to check in for the flight. For some reason we flew to Rome. Joe thinks it gives us more time. Which is good, but flying is pretty miserable. But we survived. Just. Actually, it wasn’t too bad – our seats were on different rows and different sides of the plane, so Joe asked at check-in if we could please sit together. Pretty please. And so he moved out seats. To the premier extra room seats. Whoa. And there was a fluffy nun – well, fleecy nun. She had a cope in fleece! So a nun’s habit in fleece! Lots of people watching.

Flew over the Alps and argued about where we might be. But clear skies so lovely views over the mountains and along the Italian coast. Saw what we think was Corsica. Maybe. Landed a bit late, sorted train tickets while waiting for our bag, and then headed off for the train at a run so we didn’t miss it. Relaxing ride to the main station and short walk to the hotel (walked right to it) and got settled in before heading out again.

By the way, in Rome hotel rooms have paintings on the ceiling. Well ours does. 

Once all settled we headed back out again, trying to get to the Pantheon before it closed. Joe claimed I stopped to gawk too much, but I think it was just the right level of gawking. Lots of lovely little streets, old buildings, courtyards, and Roman ruins. Had to stop and look at Foro de Augusto but missed Trajan’s Market so have to go back that way! Made it to the Pantheon with plenty of time to spare and spend a good bit of time inside admiring the building, then walking around the outside. Joe got some photos. It was crowded but not as bad as we feared. 

We also got some gelato then started walking back toward our hotel via the Trevi Fountain. Stopped for a look, but way too crowded! On the way back to the hotel stopped for dinner – really nice meal. Now sleepy – planning lots more walking tomorrow and lots of ancient Roman stuff on Saturday! 

Not Joe.