The Purple Penguin

Had a slow day yesterday, but we did walk out to El Roque de La Bonanza and took photos. Saw the recreaction area, with swimming and large grilling area and we may go off there tomorrow if it’s warm. But otherwise just took it easy.

Today we had a taxi collect us to take us to La Restinga for a whale watching tour. As we headed off Joe got a message saying it was cancelled but we decided to go ahead as it would let us see more of the island. It was over an hour down to the south of the island and we walked around La Restinga and confirmed the cancellation. Watched people and boats and Joe took photos. We then decided instead of a taxi back we’d try out the buses. So got a bus about the time our tour would have started and headed back. Had a brief stop at El Pinar where we had to buy another ticket, but stayed on the same bus. Then to Valverde. We walked around a bit but it’s very steep roads and we weren’t sure where things were so we again looked out over the town and took photos before hopping on the bus to the Parador. We did see birds, goats, and cats! As well as people watching.

It was nice to see a bit more of the island. There are larger flat areas for agriculture than on La Gomera, but it also looks much more like a volcano with a lot of black rock and lava flows. There was also a pine forest we drove through. We could have seen more with a rental car but it was nice to sit back and let someone else drive! The roads are twisty as you have to climb up to get anywhere!

Monday started well, got up early, had breakfast, and down to the harbour to go whale watching. Were far too early, as is normal, so found a bench and watched the boats. Saw the ferry come in and so checked the timings and realised we can get the ferry back to San Sebastian when we leave and it will be on time to get the afternoon ferry back to Tenerife. So we’re sorted for Thursday. But then we got a call saying whale watching was cancelled due to wind. So no spending the morning on a boat. Met up with four other people who were also there to go on the trip and who had not received a call (found out later one pair had but hadn’t answered!) So we waited until after ten and several phone calls – our options were to try to get to Valle Gran Rey tomorrow morning or do the trip on Thursday. Well, we’re leaving on Thursday and don’t care to try to get to the other town tomorrow morning (not even sure what time we’d have to be there but it would involve a taxi and faff to get back so). So no whale watching from La Gomera. We do have another whale watching trip planned for El Hierro (if we can get to the port).

So a slow wander back to the hotel, check to see if the tour person was there (she was not and wasn’t all day so have to sort that tomorrow). Then back to the room and as the day was disappointing anyway, we decided to do some hand washing. So have clean clothes for the rest of the trip now. We also found out the Laguna is closed from Wednesday for a private event, so will have to do our last day at our favourite pool tomorrow. We did have lunch by the main pool today and it was quite nice.

So we had a lazy couple of days at the last hotel. Spent Tuesday lazing by the Laguna pool (salt water) and a bit of swim. It did look like the pool was open on Wednesday with everything else shut off but we stayed up at the main complex and rested. Too hazy to see the Geminids though – we had haze from the Sahara the last few days.

Thursday got up early and had a quick breakfast before getting out bags and hoping in a taxi to the port (only a few minutes by car but ages by foot, especially with rucksacks). We had thought we’d go by road to San Sebastian for the ferry to Tenerife, but decided the ferry was easier and we’d seen the drive in. Were early (of course) so watched the sun through the haze while waiting. Rode on the upper deck to San Sebastian where we had a long layover (arrived just after 9 and our ferry to Tenerife didn’t go until 2pm) and we had to wait for the 10:30 ferry to put our bags in. Once we’d put our bags in the lockers for the ferry, we went for a brief wander around. We went into the Iglesia de La Asunción (church) and found out the whole festival things we’d seen early was probably to do with the Virgin of Guadalupe – not the Mexican one which is what I was thinking! So we’ve possibly seen the statue, maybe. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bajada_(festival) Or if you can read Spanish: https://guadalupegomera.com/ or https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Virgen_de_Guadalupe_(La_Gomera) The Bajada only happens every 5 years, so we got the 2023 one. Loads of shops selling things related, but we resisted.

Rode on the upper deck outside back to Tenerife, but haze was so bad La Gomera disappeared quickly and couldn’t see Tenerife until we were nearly there. It was funny because everything I was reading indicated you could see Tenerife from some of the lookouts on La Gomera on a clear day – actually you can see Tenerife from just about everywhere on La Gomera – well all the bits facing toward Tenerife. We could see it from the beach by our hotel. It was only the last couple of days with the haze that we couldn’t see it.

We had a shorter wait in Tenerife, so grabbed lunch at the port and watched the people. The ferry loading was a lot more casual – Joe saw people heading that way so we followed and ended up on the ferry. Armas isn’t as slick as Fred Olsen, but it wasn’t a bad ride – two and half hours, but most was in the dark. So we arrived at El Hierro in the dark, found our taxi, and were driven to the Parador. Couldn’t see much of where we’d arrived (and I think we go back in the dark as well!) just the road ahead (twisty again) and vaguely what was alongside (much more shrub than La Gomera – we think). At one point we sat at a traffic light for absolutely ages, then when it finally turned green we turned into a one lane tunnel which was quite long!

The Parador is toward the end of a dead end road, right on the sea with the mountain right behind it. We got checked in and offered a sea view room, which we took. Turns out we’ve probably got the best room in the whole place – upper level, right on the corner, with a wrap around balcony overlooking the sea and views of the mountian. Had a lovely dinner, tried to watch for Geminids from our balcony but still hazy, and then fell asleep to the sound of the sea. When we woke up we had a brilliant view of the sunrise over the sea (still hazy) and finally saw the view which is spectacular. There isn’t much here though, including walks, and the pool is closed due to erosion from the sea, so we are taking it easy on the balcony watching the sea and thinking about a walk later.

So the bits and pieces we may have missed out. First, the drive yesterday through the Laurel forest was a bit scary. It was the first time we’d been up there without any cloud – glorious day, bright sunshine and no clouds at all, not even a bit of mist. But that meant on some of the turns the road simply disappeared in the contrast between bright sun and shade under the trees. And by disappear I mean you couldn’t see anything, not even the car in front – or just the bare moving shadow of a car in front. And this was usually right at a twist in the road. So we were moving very slowly and carefully – though there were only about three places where the light difference was that bad it was scary enough that there was a queue of cars all creeping along!

Joe says they could save money on signs if they just mark the straight bits. Would only need a couple of signs then.

So we’ve not seen much in the ways of mammels – just dogs, cats and goats. The cats are usually semi-feral. And not as many birds as we’d hoped. We definitely heard Bolle’s pigeons in the forest, but only caught glimpses of movement and birds flying off. We’ve seen a lot of kestrals and gulls, but no confirmed shearwaters. Canary Chiffchaffs and canaries, greenfinches, and nothing else that we can defnitely identify. So it goes.

Today is a rest day by the pool. With champagne for breakfast. Though Joe had pancakes, fried egg, streaky bacon, and mushrooms and called it a Canadian breakfast. With no maple syrup at all, not even the palm honey they have here. I say it can’t be Canadian without sweet tree sap (though Joe did point out palms aren’t trees, even though they are palm trees).

After a small breakfast we headed out for the last day with the car and went to San Sebastian. Twisty drive (mind you, every drive is twisty – there will be one of those twists for 1.5km signs and 1.5kms later there’s another one). Drove through the city to the port, then back down along the front and found a perfect parking space. We’ve been lucky with the driving.

We walked around San Sesbatian and had a coffee. Weren’t particularly hungry so just looked at the town. There was something going on – large marques set up by the Torre del Conde where they were setting up for something – stage at one end with long tables set up. Then at the Church Iglesia de La Asunción there were crowds and singing, also chairs set up under awnings outside. It also looked like most of the tourist things were closed. But it was a nice walk around the town.

We drove back the long way to the hotel getting back late afternoon. At a bit before sunset we headed back out, walked along the road by the golf course and saw a few birds. Then along the shore watching the birds and sunset. We were waiting for the stars and Geminids, but there was still a bit too much light. We did watch as the stars came out and could see bits of the milky way, also saw a satellite or three and a couple of meteors. So have plans to go out after dinner, but probably in a couple of nights. Best nights to see the Geminids is the 13 or 14 December, so!

Up earlier this morning and breakfast by 7 – sat on the terrace and watched the sun come up while drinking coffee which is a lovely way to start the day. We’d loaded up the car before breakfast so once that was done we headed out. We aimed for Las Creces in Garajonay National Park which is labelled as a short easy loop hike through the forest of about 2 hours. Perfect.

So twist and turn up to the parking area (very small) to find we’re the first ones parking. Picked a spot that would easy to get out of and headed off down the wide easy path. The first bit is very wide and easy, though heading down, and about 0.7km to the picnic area. We sat at the picnic area to see if we could see any birds, but nope. Could hear loads, but could see nothing.

Now all the info about the trail said to go anti-clockwise, which goes down into the ravine. We went clockwise, along the nice wide path that goes along the other side of the ravine. The walk is nice, but under the trees with swirling mist. Not saying it was spooky or anthing but:

It occassionally opens out, but is mostly under trees. We could hear the pigeons/doves and they were possibly laurel pigeons, but we couldn’t see them well because they were way up in the canopy. So just dark pigeon shaped birds! The path back down into the ravine is much steeper, narrower, and generally more difficult with some muddy steps and clambering over roots and rocks. And the two hour walk took us about 3 hours because we stopped to try to see birds, take photos, and mostly because we’re old gits with bad joints. But it was a lovely walk. Most of the walk we were on our own, but toward the end it was getting busier and noisier and when we got back to the picnic area it was pretty full! The parking area was also full. So we timed that perfectly.

We then drove up to Chorros de Epina, a set of seven springs. Had to walk down to them and didn’t get any photos as there were a couple of people there filling bottles – large bottles! We did a try some and it was lovely and cold. There is a cafe at the top and we stopped for coffee while we planned our next route out. From the cafe we could look out and see La Palma.

We then drove down into Valle Gran Rey, one of the more spectacular ravines and one of the larger towns. It’s where most of the ocean based sightseeing tours are located. We found a parking space right next to the port and in front of a restaurant that looked nice. So we decided to have a large lunch and a bit of a rest. Definitely warmer on the coast – we had dressed for the forest with long sleeves and trousers and were actually a bit cold on the walk (well I was, Joe said it was comfortable cause he’s weird). But on the coast it was too warm for long sleeves! Still lunch was nice, even if we didn’t get the fish/seafood platter for two (Joe got tuna and I had steak with clams and prawns).

We then did a slow drive back to the hotel. It has to be slow drives because the roads all twist and turn up and down ravines. And down into Valle Gran Rey it goes narrow with pedestrian crossing every few meters. Once back at the hotel we put on short sleeve shirts and had a G&T at the pool bar. We were just finishing when the music for something was starting. So again, perfect timing!

So had breakfast, no champagne because at 10ish we collected our rental car. Joe had mapped out a looped route to the north of the island and through Garajonay National Park. Today was more a scouting mission just to see what it was like, both driving the roads and the areas we were interested in. We stopped at any mirador (viewpoints) so have tons of photos; we also drove through a couple of villages and one area that was tight corners and only a car width wide. Might not do that again! Also the route back had roadworks with one way traffic and lots of stopping, so that route is also off the list! We did a little walking but not much – saving that for tomorrow. Today once we got to the centre and up the mountains it was cold and rainy. Lots of cloud and very dark in the forest. But wonderful views when it cleared and we could see Tenerife.

We saw more kestrals – there do seem to be quite a lot of them! And possibly another larger raptor but couldn’t get a clear view. And we ended the day by parking by Playa Santiago and walking down to the Spar for provisions, then stopping at the cafe for cake and coffee. We’ve had so many large suppers that we’ll probably just leave it at that tonight!

Tomorrow will be the park most of the day and we may try San Sebastian on Saturday.

So we’re being so lazy I’m not sure what day of the week it is! Hooray for a relaxing holiday. After breakfast, when I learned Joe had neglected to mention they serve champagne*, we went down to the town (village?). Saw a large boat leaving the harbour and figured it was a whale watching tour, so we watched it going out. Noticed it had stopped and, through the binoculars, people were gathered on one side so I was watching to see if I could see what they were watching. I might have seen something surface, but not sure; however, what I definitely saw was porpoises or dolphins closer in to shore. So we watched this pod for a bit until it went around the headland and out of sight. Unfortunately a bit too far out to really ID what they were. Did a little shopping and pottering about, but mainly sitting and watching the sea. Tough holiday.

We went to the Gara Restaurant at the resort and had the tasting menu – this one was for La Palma and El Hierro and was lovely. There were some tastes we didn’t quite get and a bit too much banana foam, but I enjoyed it anyway. We should check to see when they do the La Gomera menu.

Next day (5 December) Joe made up for not telling me about the champagne by bringing me a glass. Nice way to start the day, champagne and coffee. Another lazy day, though we did sort out car hire for Thursday (we’ll have that for three days to see the island) and booked a whale watching tour for Monday morning. But other than that I sat and read – found a place where I could see the ocean and just read. Also saw lots of birds. The ocean was flat calm today, but cloudy weather and a bit dull. Joe went out and took photos and a very cold swim.

Next day (6 December) breakfast – again champagne and coffee and fruit. Then to the room and sorted a bag and our swimsuits and headed down to the saltwater pool. I started another book – really enjoying the opportunity to just sit and read! And I sat by the pool and read. Joe swam and said it was still really cold so I opted out (it looked so inviting though! But cold.) In the evening we headed out to the village to eat rather than stay at the resort and got a table at Restaurante Kuss. The food was fantastic – we had a prawn starter that was brilliant and even the bread roll was lovely. May have to go back and try some of the other stuff on the menu! Tomorrow we are off to investigate more of the island.

*Our breakfast technique, well our usual one when I’m not mucking up the coffee system, is to find a table. Joe goes off in search of breakfast while I wait for coffee, and he usually brings back juice for us before heading off again. I don’t usually go toward the juice because Joe has brought me a glass. And the champagne was kept at one end of the juice station, so I missed it. Until I saw someone bring two glasses to another table as we were getting up to leave. Joe just said ‘oh yeah, they have that.’

Yesterday got up had breakfast and then headed for the nifty cliff lift and the saltwater pool They lie when they say it’s heated. But we swam. Well, I eased in, squawked, then swam. Then lay in the sun for a bit, then swam again. That water is cold! We stayed there most of the morning and instead of a G&T by the pool we had a hot chocolate. Did I say the water was cold?

Then it was dinner at one of the restaurants – Tasco Fandango. We had a nice dinner, with a local Canary wine and Andalusian beer for Joe.

Today was even lazier. We went for a walk along the cliff to the next bay (Playa de Tapachuga). We saw a pair of kestrals – one was sitting on a post a ways off and the other flying about. Saw another raptor but too far to identify. In fact, wasn’t sure about the kestrals, but more on that later. We walked back along the road and glad we did because I have now seen hoopoes! Could hear them calling and then one just flew up and posed, then another one. Lovely birds. Also have seen green finches (maybe) and island canaries. Get to hear them singing outside the room all day. And then saw the same sort of raptor sitting on a post outside the parking area of the hotel so got a much better look and thought ‘yep kestral’. Then it flew off. And we followed. Straight to our room where it was sitting outside like ‘is this close enough then?’ and definitely close enough and definitely kestral. So that was nifty.

I sat and read for the rest of the day while Joe headed out to the main pool (I was still cold from yesterday). Joe said that pool was as cold. So a rather relaxing day for me while Joe froze!

People thought I was joking when I said I was coming here to sleep. But that’s what we’re doing. Sort of. Woke up really early this morning and heard dripping so went back to sleep. Woke up again at seven to hear the rain pouring down, so rolled over and pretended I was still asleep until around eight when Joe was up. We sort of pretended we were going back to sleep but gave up and got ready for the day.

It was still dripping when we went to breakfast, we are now trying to remember if it was heavy rain or just rain, but definitely wet. And lots of puddles. Went in for breakfast and I managed to muck it all up by heading straight for the coffee and getting my own pot – you’re suppose to sit down and let them bring it to you. But once I had my pot of coffee I was not letting go. And it was good coffee, so. Joe got us crepes because it was the one area that didn’t have hoards of people around – it was completely empty. Good crepes. And by the time we finished breakfast the rain had stopped and the sun was coming out.

So we sorted our stuff and headed out to see where things are and have a bit of a walk. Our friends have stayed here before (and recommended we stay here) and said we had to do the nifty cliff lift! And when we checked in we were told about the cliff lift down to the beach. So off we headed to find the nifty cliff lift. Walked down along the sea cliff with wonderful views over the ocean and found the cliff lift, got in and, after all the build up, were disappointed to see it was just a lift. No glass walls or anything. But when the doors opened at the bottom we were in a cave tunnel leading out onto the beach area. (We need to take a photo!)

Now when I say beach, I don’t mean the sort of the beach I’m used to. These are huge rock beaches, the sort that you really dont’ walk along wading in the surf. Just very large rocks with waves. Lovely, but stick to the paths! We checked out the saltwater swimming pool (tomorrow’s adventure) and walked toward town. At the end of the path was a shallow pond from all the rain – I think it’s normally a parking lot but this morning it was a pond. So we waded across (it wasn’t even ankle deep) and headed on into town.

Town is mostly a strip along the beach with a couple of roads going back between one of the hills. Lots of little shops, bars, and restaurants. We browsed some shops and walked along the front. Walked out along the breakwater, just generally wandered about. We did do some grocery shopping – mostly looking at things but picked up some cheese and crackers for a snack. We also stopped by a little art gallery which is on the beach back toward our hotel and which has lovely work. Then back up the cliff lift.

Stopped and had some water and cool down, then headed off the opposite direction toward the next bay. The hotel has a walkway along the cliff to the next bay along which is really nice. It has a couple of viewing areas along the walk and is quite a nice walk. We didn’t go as far as the beach at that bay, just the overlook above it. Watched the seagulls and waves and sauntered back. Then it was the pool bar and G&Ts out of the sun.

Rested in the room for a couple of hours reading and relaxing, then headed out for photos of the sunset before supper. Well, I was going to put in some photos, but they keep getting put in upside down! So let’s see . . .