The Purple Penguin

Changed rooms and got sleep! Disappointed to see the same cloudy damp weather. Headed back to the dam on the lower area, again stopping close to the entrance where we saw otters! Spent quite a bit of time watching the otters, walking along the river to follow them. Saw a quick glimpse of a kingfisher flying over the otters. When we couldn’t see the otters any longer we headed up to the dam – which was open with lots of water flowing through. The gates to the entry and the door were also open but no tours. The water level was higher so the rocks and perches that were visible yesterday were not this morning and there were fewer birds about, so we headed to the area on the other side of the dam. This is a recreation area, with beaches for swimming and picnic areas. There were several cormorants and some smaller birds, but not as much activity as the other side of the dam.

We went back to the hotel for sandwiches for lunch and then we headed out right after lunch to the upper area. There is a dam there as well (a newer one up river) and we drove up to there first. It was a good spot, though we really needed the guides scope to see things as they were just dots through the binoculars. But we saw Griffon Vultures (a pair busy making more vultures and one doing the classic vulture pose on a rock), Spanish Ibex, red billed chough, and a blue rock thrush.

We then headed back to one of the viewing platforms (these were along the road up to the dam). We watched the mist and rain roll over, but in the clear times we got beautiful views of the valley. Then we spotted an imperial eagle at the top of a tree being harassed by magpies. It finally took off, pursued by magpies for a bit, before it flew right at us and by the platform so we all got a very good look. As it soared up past us another one joined it and they both soared up over the ridge. We also spotted mouflon in the distance. Driving down from the platforms we saw deer, bulls, and a red legged partridge. Stopped again for a brief walk and saw a mouflon much closer and a treecreeper. So had a very good day dispite the weather!

As Joe snored all night I spent the day half asleep because for some reason I didn’t link having two rooms with the fact that I could have switched rooms and gotten sleep!

It was an overcast, chilly, rainy sort of day. We headed into the Sierra Morena with the plan to do the lower vally then go to the upper valley in the afternoon. Drove to the lower recreational area, parked up and walked up to the dam spotting various birds and deer. We also spotted red squirrels which are apparently not usual in that park. There is a bridge just in front of the dam (for walkers only) and already some people on the bridge. Joe got some photos of a kingfisher which he’s been wanting to do for years, and now he’s had two opportunities. Our guide headed back for the van and the rain started really coming down by the time he got back. We headed for the upper valley but the rain was very heavy and the clouds had closed in so you really couldn’t see into the valley at all. We passed several cars coming down and they were saying you couldn’t really see or do anything up there. The plan was to have a picnic lunch but in that weather that plan was scrapped and we headed back to the hotel for sandwiches. Joe and I got a local chorizo sandwich which was excellent. And chips – chips came with just about everything!

We headed back to the lower area, parked a bit closer to the entrance and walked a bit looking for otters. Didn’t see otters but did see Iberian magpies, Iberian green woodpecker, and wagtails. Then we drove back up to van where about an hour earlier there had been otters according to the people there. But none while we were there, though the kingfisher did make an appearance. Spent the time watching birds and chatting with the other birders on the bridge. Saw three high flying large birds which were identified as griffon and cinereous vultures. One good thing with the weather – it was very atmospheric in the damp and fog. When it got dark we headed back to Los Pinos for supper.

Last day in Coto Doñana so up to pack after breakfast. The light was really lovely, so Joe headed out for some photos before we packed back into the van, We drove to the top of the Charco where we saw lots of water birds, including storks, graylag geese, shelducks, shovelers, lapwings, grey herons, as well as hoopoe, kestrel, red kite, iberian magpie, crested larks, and spottless starlings. The area is really lovely.

We then went to another of the visitors’ centres where they have captive lynx who have been used in the breeding programme. They are retired from the programme and maintained in an enclosure as they wouldn’t do well released. You have to be accompanied out to the inclosure and can only spend about 20 minutes there. The enclosure was smaller than expected but that meant we saw the two lynx – though they were having a nap! There are also information boards about the lynx and the breeding programme. The area was also good for birdwatching and we saw several species (some listed above!).

As it was cold – there was a brisk cold wind – the guide decided we’d stop on the way to Los Pinos to get a hot lunch rather than a cold picnic lunch, so off we headed for Andújar Natural Park stopping at a truck stop near the Seville Airport along the way for lunch. Lunch was really good with paella, soup, sausages, salmon, and puddings, so we left stuffed. Because of the lunch the drive to Andújar was sleepy. The hotel is 14km from Andújar, up the mountain in the park – Los Pinos. The road is narrow and twisty and steep and there were watch for cyclist warning signs. I told Joe you’d have to be mad to cycle up that.

Joe and I had two rooms up a narrow twisty stair, which was a good thing as Joe snored.

Today was damp – started foggy and spitting with rain so the guide switched our morning and afternoon plans as it was too wet to do the walk. Went a different route into the park, heading for the visitors’ centre. This route had much more water, so many more water birds including egrets (great and little) and grey herons. Even saw a group of flamigos! Also on the way in spotted something in a tree, a Bonnelli’s Eagle, which promptly flew off. In the park there are areas of dead eucalyptus trunks that have been set into circles for rabbit habitats and they also appear to be excellent for little owls as we spotted them sitting on the trunks. We had a brief stop at the Visitors’ Centre which is really lovely – huge windows looking over an area. We were also spotting a lot of kestrels and drove out to where there were several lesser kestrels sitting on a wire.

Lunch was at the same bar in El Rocio and while eating the weather was clearing up. After lunch we had an hour before setting off again so Joe and I walked along the waterside a bit further than the church (we didn’t go into the church though). In the large area by the church we watched a horse being trained which was interesting. Then back into the park.

We headed toward one of the hunting lodges (the park used to be a royal hunting park), but didn’t really get close enough to see the lodge/palace. But we did get out for a walk. Saw hoopoe, meadow pipit, corn bunting, Thekla’s larks, lapwings, golden plovers, black redstarts, red kites, woodlarks, and crested larks among others.

Back for another huge supper – the restaurant was closed, but they did supper for us (we ordered in advance). We did drinks before dinner and our checklist of things spotted. Then another huge meal (starter, main, and pudding for meals).

So we didn’t take a laptop on this trip. For once. But Joe took loads of photos and they’ll be on Flickr at some point. And I took notes while we travelled and now updating with dates as they happened.

We stayed at the Premier Inn at Gatwick before leaving. We thought about it and we think this is the first pre-set trip we’ve taken, where flights, transportation, and schedule are set before we book. So it’s a test to see what we think of doing this sort of thing, especially now we aren’t walking as much. Our flight was early so we were up early and got the bags dropped off. Had breakfast at the airport (don’t recommend Wagamamas for breakfast – lunch or supper yes, but breakfast wasn’t as nice). The flight wasn’t too full and we had three seats to ourselves. Joe was scoping out the other travellers to see if he could spot the others on the trip and the guide. We did see two others, but not the guide – he introduced himself in the passport control line! Got through immigration, got our bags (again the guide grabbed them, going to have to get used to that!), and we were off. We had taken off from London in fog and rain and landed in sunny Spain!

Piled into the van – small group with only five of us and the guide so we all had a window. The drive to El Rocio was nice and El Rocio itself interesting. All dirt/sand roads as it’s set up for horses, so is the origin of the ‘old west’ town. All low mission buildings, limited pavements, dirt roads, and railings in front of everything for tying up horses. The bars have tall shelves in front so you can ride your horse up and drink without dismounting – which we saw while we were having lunch. We went straight for lunch when we arrived and of course we didn’t get the name of the bar where we had lunch for two days! But the food was very good – we had the bean stew and then a platter of grilled meat with chips was brought out. The food on the trip was very good and lots of it! We ate more at one meal then we normally eat in a day.

After lunch we got checked into the hotel (Hotel Toruño) where we had a room on the first floor with a view out over Charco de la boca. We were there long enough to drop bags, have a quick admire of the view, sort out camera and binoculars, then we were off in a Coto Doñana ranger van to see the park. The only way to see the park is by ranger, so really the only way to see the area is through booking a trip and even then you only get the edges of the park. There are areas of mixed use – so farm land and other uses, but the main bit of the park is closed. The national parks in Spain where you can see lynx are heavily controlled and closed to people, so if you want to see them you have to hope they come out toward the edges where you’re allowed!

So we did a slow drive through – the main way is the Royal Way which is still a horse track that goes to Sevilla – and we did a turn off this into the park. We saw lots of birds, loads of deer (red deer), and rabbits. Highlights were a common buzzard, stonechats, little owl, Spanish sparrows, and a lynx. The lynx was spotted on our way out just trotting along the path next to a bloke on a horse (we think it was the same man and horse at the bar during lunch). Then it ducked into a bush so after waiting a while we headed on to other areas. On the way out we passed a couple of other tours, one of which saw the lynx pop its head out of the bush then back in, so we raced back to where we’d seen it and waited. Sure enough, out it came, across the track, then decided to hunt something in another bush so we got to watch it stalk and pounce. Either it missed or swallowed whatever before it came back out because it didn’t look like it had anything. A young male, just under a year old.

Back to the hotel where we went down to the water to watch the sunset and saw loads of water birds and bats – Leisler’s Noctule and Soprano Pipistrelle. Then off to dinner – the hotel has a restaurant next to it and we had a table at the back.