The Purple Penguin

So the meals are very nice onboard. Though we are the last seating for dinner and also the last to be served! Still, it was worth it. After dinner, there was a talk in one of the bars, which we missed most of, but did get to try the canape served. Still not absolutely sure what it was other than tasty. May have been air dried lamb.

Then to bed as we had to be up early for our Trondheim tour. Just getting off to sleep and an announcement started – Joe said I was up and out before he’d fully got out of bed – it was a northern lights announcement! Not the spectacular ones you see all the photos of; in fact, a lot of people thought it was just clouds. But they were bright and moved and occasionally turned green/yellow (but were mostly white). So we were out on deck until sometime after midnight watching the light move over the sky. Came back in  a bit cold and finally fell asleep just to have the alarm go off – felt like I’d only just got to sleep!

Up and early breakfast and on a tour bus for 7:50. Bus left at 8 and drove through a dark Trondheim. Sunrise this morning was 10:01 and our tour ended at 10:00. So peered out the window at wooden houses as the bus wound it’s way up a steep rise to a lookout point over the city. We were told that we were lucky to get up there, as a day or so ago there was too much ice for the bus to get to the point. So we had a lovely view and the guide pointed out the sites of interest. Nice with the city lit up and Christmas lights on. Then we drove around the university and through the ‘mansion’ area – all the large beautiful houses. The guide said we could look at the Christmas decorations, but as we left the area she said she was very disappointed in their decorating – there was actually very little up!

We ended the tour at Nidaros Cathedral where we had a guided tour and then a chance to walk around. Joe and I elected to walk back to the ship, so had a wander around the Archbishops palace (but didn’t go in), and then through town along the river. Pretty city. Back on board and Joe was still taking photos as we were leaving. As the ship left port we got fed mussels from the area as we went past Munkholmen. Joe took loads of photos of the island (as did everyone!)

The rest of the day, we pretty much stayed on deck, though we had a brief talk in the afternoon about the northern lights and we also changed/added some activities. Then back to the room to rest before dinner and at about 6pm got another announcement. Joe had been checking the app he’d downloaded, so we were getting ready to go on deck anyway – again I was quick off the mark! These were much brighter than last night/early morning and stretched across the sky. But still mainly white. Hoping to see some more colours before we head back home!

While at dinner we docked at Rørvik, so finished eating and went out on deck for a look at the town. It was raining horizontally, so I didn’t stay out long, but Joe stayed to try to get photos (he’s weird like that). Now back underway and waiting to see if we’ll see more lights!

So the talk last night was to introduce the senior officers and to go over the excursion for today. Then we headed up to the top deck to have champagne and watch Bergen disappear off the stern. So we’ve now had champagne on board a ship in the sub-Antarctic and sub-Arctic. But we’ll actually be going into the Arctic this time. Then to sleep.

Up earlyish, sort of, finally roused ourselves and to breakfast as we hit ‘open water’ – I put that in quotes because we never really leave the shore! But it was rougher and at one point things went flying in the dining room. We hit quieter waters by just before our early lunch (11.30!) I’ll have to put a schedule at some point – we had a few stops last night and this morning before reaching Ålesund, which was our first excursion. But we spent time on deck looking at the villages and one stop (Tuvik?). The title comes from the fact that going past a lighthouse (Joe has photos) I thought it was bouy sized – about as tall as me – as it was just a concrete looking structure with a light, but as we went around it, it became clear it was a decent sized two storey house. Everything looks small from the ship, with the tall mountains around!

We had a walking tour of Ålesund, our excursion for the day, looking at the Art Nouveau and got a quick tour of the museum. The city was, like most Norwegian places, all wood, but in 1904 it burned down – completely. About 5 buildings survived. So they set out to rebuild, but said no wood. It’s the only Norwegian town/city with almost no wooden buildings (we only saw a couple!) And it was build to modern design, which is why it’s all Art Nouveau. Reminded us of Napier in New Zealand – only nouveau not deco! The excursion was about 2 hours then we were back onboard and off about half an hour later.

We had another talk – this one about the excursions and we’re now trying to decide if we’re adding one and changing one. Probably change to whale watching, but will we be able to see anything in the dark? Then Joe took a few photos from deck as it was getting dark and we now wait for dinner.

So, we’ve had a week of getting ready – warm clothes, seeing people, generally getting stuff done. Then we headed off to stay at Gatwick as our flight was early. As it was we had to get up by 6am to get all checked in and bags dropped off. So we weren’t sure about the alarm in the hotel room and I asked Joe to set his phone. He didn’t say he’d also set his watch. So at 6am all three alarms went off. We woke up.

And our flight was late. Due to fog. And no one said ‘sorry for the f in fog’. We finally took off around an hour late and once we went above the fog it was a lovely day – bright sunshine. Not a bad flight. We descended back down into cloud and rain. Bergen is wet. The drive from the airport to the hotel was mostly through tunnels, which was interesting though not much to look at! At the hotel too early to check in so we headed out in search of lunch and tourist info. Then back to check in and nap because it was dark. Very dark. And we aren’t even at the arctic circle yet!

When it stopped raining we headed back out and scoped out the ferry terminal and had a good walk around. Picked up a couple of things at a grocery store and got change – they have holes in the middle! Most of the places to eat were full tonight – lots of parties! But we found an Indian restaurant and had way too much food. Tomorrow will be wandering around Bergen with Joe playing with his camera!

So up yesterday and off to the station. Had breakfast at the station, found our platform, and settled in to wait for the train. Which didn’t come. Due to a ‘technical fault’ it was running half an hour late. So panic, because that meant we’d miss our connection at Köln, which meant we’d miss our Eurostar train and be stuck. So not so much panic, cause stuck in Europe could be fun.

DB assured us that the conductor would call ahead and hold our train to Brussels – oh the joys of a joined up transport system run by the state! So we had a pleasant journey through Germany looking at church steeples and domes and sometimes church steeple domes. Then a frantic dash for the train door at Köln – and found out they’d brought our train in to the same platform the Brussels train was on so it was just a mad dash up the platform and onto the train. Of course our seats were all the way at the other end of the train!

So find our seats, sit down, and wait. And an announcement – due to a technical fault the train would be delayed. ARG!!! But it turns out we only left 10 minutes late and by the time we’d got to Brussels we were on time. So a stroll to the Eurostar terminal, through immigration , and into the waiting area. They are doing work on the Eurostar terminal in Brussels, so it was a bit of a warren – we were wondering if there would be an area to eat or if everything was closed. But nope, once you wind your way through everything is there and the first thing I saw was the Pierre Marcolini shop. So I have proper chocolate. (Joe says he started to say ‘I’ll get a seat and watch the bags’ but I was gone, had scooted into the chocolate shop.) We also got something to eat – actually I had to get into that queue and get us food cause Joe said the chocolate wasn’t enough and he wanted a beer. Then onto the train and on our way home. Through the dark clouds and rain. Ugh. Got out in London and it was cold and dark and damp. So back home.

So up and out to the Bauhaus Archiv – largest collection of Bauhaus material. It was a straight walk through the Teirgarten, so we walked. Lovely day in the garden, went through the ‘English garden’ which wasn’t so very English but still nice. In the morning there are water sprayers going, so had to dodge some wet paths. But still a lovely walk. Got to the museum just as it was opening, but headed to the cafe for breakfast. Best coffee in Berlin was in the cafe at Bauhaus.

The museum itself is tiny – displays actually say they knew it was too small as they were building, but as it was a Bauhaus design they went with it. The building is lovely, but takes almost no time to go through the museum. We spent about an hour and a half, but that’s because I really like the style and was watching a video! Joe paid for a very heavy hardback book on the Bauhaus from the start to 1933, then I had to carry it all day.

We then walked along the canal toward Potsdamer and passed one of the other Bauhaus buildings in Berlin – The Shell House. It’s really lovely and Joe took lots of photos. We walked on, up to Potsdamer and along to the memorials along the old wall. Unfortunately the one for Peter Fechter is right in the midst of a cafe! We ended up at the Museuminstel where we had lunch, then we walked along the river back to the hotel, stopping for Joe to take photos. At the train station we saw a Oktoberfest tent, so had a look in. Why is Oktoberfest in September? Or why isn’t it called Septemberfest?

We packed as we’re off tomorrow (boo) then went out to a nearby Croatian restaurant and had a wonderful very large meal. We got a sharing platter – after Joe had crowd sourced what to eat from the online menu amongst a bunch of his work colleagues. Which was the other shell of the day – the centre of the platter had a large flaming scallop shell – yes, on fire. Cooking the skewers of lamb. There is a photo. And at the end of the meal we got a little brandy. Then back to the bar and g&ts on the water watching the boats and people.

Today was museum day. Got up earlier and got out and on the way to Museuminsel. Once off the S-bahn Joe said we were early (we only had about 40 minutes to get there! But Joe said early!) so we stopped for coffee and bread. And then we could get to the Neus Museum and wait for it to open. Headed straight for Nefertiti and were possibly the first ones there as we were the only ones in there! It was nice to have the space to stop and look. Stunning piece. Then a wander around the Neus Museum with Joe muttering about time. For some reason.

We then joined the queue for the Pergamonmuseum. The Ishtar Gate is the first thing you see currently, go through that and see the Roman Gates. The whole museum was large gates – or seemed that way. There is still building work going on (should be completed by 2025) so most of the Pergamonmuseum is closed and no access to the Pergamon alter. But still nice to have a look around.

Then off to the Altes Museum with Etruscan, Greek, and Roman statues. Joe was getting grumpy despite stopping for a drink. So didn’t spend long there and headed over to the Humboldt Box to see the work they are doing on the palace. Really really nice reconstruction with a modern wing along the water. Should be a beautiful museum when finished. And the Humboldt Forum is named for both brothers – one for founding the university and the other as a scientist (Joe would like me to point out that there is a penguin named for him, amongst lots and lots of other things).

Then back to the art and the Alte Museum and primarily 19th century painting, which isn’t my favourite. We scooted through that very quickly (though Joe complained we were in there too long) and headed for the Bode Museum. Medieval to 17th century, but much more gothic and medieval than later things. Also saw some of the ‘Trojan Treasure’.

Interesting to read some of the descriptions – the second world war was presented as something awful that German’s caused and should never be repeated because much of the art was destroyed. But the most interesting was how many displays had ‘these items were stolen by the Russians and kept, breaking international law!’

So, Joe’s reward, pictured above. After he dragged me out of the Bode we went to a place recommended by one of his work colleagues. A craft brewery with restaurant. And Joe got the tasting rack as above. We had a starter as he tried each of the beers. Then he ordered one of the nasty things and we had dinner. Our first ‘traditional’ German meal. It’s been so hot we’ve been eating very light meals and usually Asian! So today Joe had a knuckle of pork with sauerkraut, mash, and mash peas; and I had the sausage platter with three different sausages and potatoes fried with onions and bacon. Very meat heavy, but very nice!

And I get another museum tomorrow!

So Berlin. Joe was in Holland for work stuff, so I came over on the ferry and met up with him on the train in Hengelo. Long journey! Left work at 5 on Friday, up to Harwich and on the ferry, dinner and sleep, in Hoek van Holland at 8 and off. Didn’t get on the train to Berlin until 3pm but was in Hengelo by noon – I hit all the connections just right and was over an hour earlier than I thought I’d be. Especially with rail works around Rotterdam! So I walked around Hengelo and had lunch – no left luggage there so I had to carry the bag which limited how far I could go. But I found a market with a live band – brass – playing blues and disco! Fun. Got on the train, found Joe – we had a whole little compartment to ourselves, and watched Germany go by. Got into Berlin about twenty past seven, so that was a long trip. But lovely.

Off to the hotel from the station and we’re staying right on the river, lovely hotel, lovely area. So dinner at the hotel last night and straight to bed.

Slept in – we’re on holiday! So left quite late in the morning and just walked all over. Crossed the river and headed along the park along the river walk to the Government district. Can’t get tickets to go up the dome but had a walk around the district. Then down to the Brandenburg Gate and the Holocaust Memorial. We didn’t go into the exhibit there, but did walk around the blocks. Then headed for Checkpoint Charlie, via Potsdamer Plaza.

Saw bits of the Berlin wall along our walk, but at Checkpoint Charlie there is a museum. It looks a very small museum, but once you’re upstairs it just keeps going! Lots of information about the wall and the people who helped people across – many of the same people who’d been in the German resistance fighting the Nazis. Interesting.

We then headed out along the longest section of wall remaining and an interesting exhibit on the Nazis on the site of the gestapo headquarters. From there walked back to the hotel through the park. So a very long day of walking and seeing the top sites!

So, no update for a while! We were busy. Last days of holiday and all.

Sunday night we headed out for a restaurant that was recommended by Lonely Planet, El Machichaco – turns out it was very good. Organic, local, slow food. We got mains and pudding this time – homemade ice cream!  Then back to the hotel to sleep.

Next day we head out for coffee and a last look around. No Santander badges! Then sat on the front and watched the boats until we saw our ferry coming in; off to the ferry office to check in and then out for brunch. Ended up back at El Machichaco for egg and chips (mine came with ham and carmilised onion, Joe got chorizo). Then hotel to get our bags and join the queue to board the ferry at 2pm. And wait. wait a bit more. Until about 20 past 2 we got an announcement that no one could understand, but it turned out that the ferry had engine problems (a piston in one of the engines, I think) and so it would be delayed. Boarding would be at 17.00 and the ferry would leave at 21.00. Oh and we wouldn’t be going to Portsmouth, but to Plymouth and a couple of hours later than we would have been in Portsmouth.

Not much we could do about it, so we sat in the ferry terminal and waited until 5pm boarding. Got on board, dumped the bags, made reservations for dinner, and then walked the ship.  Stood on deck for the departure and watched Santander and then Spain disappear off the stern; then into the restaurant for dinner. Not a bad dinner and slept well.

Spent most of Tuesday watching the sea and reading. Got into Plymouth around 4pm and after grabbing a taxi got to the station in time to get the just before 5pm train to London – waved to Glastonbury as we stopped at Castle Cary! Finally in London a bit before 9pm and home just after 10pm and settled with dinner at half past 10. We should have been in Portsmouth at 2pm and that’s a 2 hour train journey home! Oh well.

So today work from home rather than try to get up and off to the office. Also meant laundry could get done and things started to be put away – the very definition of the end of the holiday.

So, Friday. We got up a bit later and headed out to shop. Didn’t actually do much shopping, but did do a lot of walking, again. Saw some bits we hadn’t seen before. Later that evening we met up with the IT person from the Spanish office and had drinks, then had dinner in a place he recommended.

Saturday morning up after not a very good night’s sleep (someone was watching telly with the volume right up until 2 or 3 in the morning). Checked out of the hotel and made our way to Charmartin train station for the Santander train. We were far too early but it was easier to get to then we expected. The train journey was long but interesting – they showed The Muppet Movie! In Spanish. And the scenery was lovely through the mountains.

Santander, easy walk to the hotel. I’d booked it based on location, but it was also fairly cheap. Right across from the ferry terminal and not expensive, so I was warning Joe it might be a bit down market. So we walk into a lovely lobby, all art deco and posh. We get checked in (though Joe said the man at the desk seemed a bit surprised at our room rate) and head up to the room. Which is large. We have a short hallway, with bathroom and small dressing room of it, then the room. Yeah, not that down market! Hopefully be a bit quieter.

So get settled in and then head out to walk along the front for a bit. Found a nice little Mexican restaurant and had a very good meal and now back at the room to catch up on sleep!