The Purple Penguin

Changed rooms and got sleep! Disappointed to see the same cloudy damp weather. Headed back to the dam on the lower area, again stopping close to the entrance where we saw otters! Spent quite a bit of time watching the otters, walking along the river to follow them. Saw a quick glimpse of a kingfisher flying over the otters. When we couldn’t see the otters any longer we headed up to the dam – which was open with lots of water flowing through. The gates to the entry and the door were also open but no tours. The water level was higher so the rocks and perches that were visible yesterday were not this morning and there were fewer birds about, so we headed to the area on the other side of the dam. This is a recreation area, with beaches for swimming and picnic areas. There were several cormorants and some smaller birds, but not as much activity as the other side of the dam.

We went back to the hotel for sandwiches for lunch and then we headed out right after lunch to the upper area. There is a dam there as well (a newer one up river) and we drove up to there first. It was a good spot, though we really needed the guides scope to see things as they were just dots through the binoculars. But we saw Griffon Vultures (a pair busy making more vultures and one doing the classic vulture pose on a rock), Spanish Ibex, red billed chough, and a blue rock thrush.

We then headed back to one of the viewing platforms (these were along the road up to the dam). We watched the mist and rain roll over, but in the clear times we got beautiful views of the valley. Then we spotted an imperial eagle at the top of a tree being harassed by magpies. It finally took off, pursued by magpies for a bit, before it flew right at us and by the platform so we all got a very good look. As it soared up past us another one joined it and they both soared up over the ridge. We also spotted mouflon in the distance. Driving down from the platforms we saw deer, bulls, and a red legged partridge. Stopped again for a brief walk and saw a mouflon much closer and a treecreeper. So had a very good day dispite the weather!

As Joe snored all night I spent the day half asleep because for some reason I didn’t link having two rooms with the fact that I could have switched rooms and gotten sleep!

It was an overcast, chilly, rainy sort of day. We headed into the Sierra Morena with the plan to do the lower vally then go to the upper valley in the afternoon. Drove to the lower recreational area, parked up and walked up to the dam spotting various birds and deer. We also spotted red squirrels which are apparently not usual in that park. There is a bridge just in front of the dam (for walkers only) and already some people on the bridge. Joe got some photos of a kingfisher which he’s been wanting to do for years, and now he’s had two opportunities. Our guide headed back for the van and the rain started really coming down by the time he got back. We headed for the upper valley but the rain was very heavy and the clouds had closed in so you really couldn’t see into the valley at all. We passed several cars coming down and they were saying you couldn’t really see or do anything up there. The plan was to have a picnic lunch but in that weather that plan was scrapped and we headed back to the hotel for sandwiches. Joe and I got a local chorizo sandwich which was excellent. And chips – chips came with just about everything!

We headed back to the lower area, parked a bit closer to the entrance and walked a bit looking for otters. Didn’t see otters but did see Iberian magpies, Iberian green woodpecker, and wagtails. Then we drove back up to van where about an hour earlier there had been otters according to the people there. But none while we were there, though the kingfisher did make an appearance. Spent the time watching birds and chatting with the other birders on the bridge. Saw three high flying large birds which were identified as griffon and cinereous vultures. One good thing with the weather – it was very atmospheric in the damp and fog. When it got dark we headed back to Los Pinos for supper.

Last day in Coto Doñana so up to pack after breakfast. The light was really lovely, so Joe headed out for some photos before we packed back into the van, We drove to the top of the Charco where we saw lots of water birds, including storks, graylag geese, shelducks, shovelers, lapwings, grey herons, as well as hoopoe, kestrel, red kite, iberian magpie, crested larks, and spottless starlings. The area is really lovely.

We then went to another of the visitors’ centres where they have captive lynx who have been used in the breeding programme. They are retired from the programme and maintained in an enclosure as they wouldn’t do well released. You have to be accompanied out to the inclosure and can only spend about 20 minutes there. The enclosure was smaller than expected but that meant we saw the two lynx – though they were having a nap! There are also information boards about the lynx and the breeding programme. The area was also good for birdwatching and we saw several species (some listed above!).

As it was cold – there was a brisk cold wind – the guide decided we’d stop on the way to Los Pinos to get a hot lunch rather than a cold picnic lunch, so off we headed for Andújar Natural Park stopping at a truck stop near the Seville Airport along the way for lunch. Lunch was really good with paella, soup, sausages, salmon, and puddings, so we left stuffed. Because of the lunch the drive to Andújar was sleepy. The hotel is 14km from Andújar, up the mountain in the park – Los Pinos. The road is narrow and twisty and steep and there were watch for cyclist warning signs. I told Joe you’d have to be mad to cycle up that.

Joe and I had two rooms up a narrow twisty stair, which was a good thing as Joe snored.

Today was damp – started foggy and spitting with rain so the guide switched our morning and afternoon plans as it was too wet to do the walk. Went a different route into the park, heading for the visitors’ centre. This route had much more water, so many more water birds including egrets (great and little) and grey herons. Even saw a group of flamigos! Also on the way in spotted something in a tree, a Bonnelli’s Eagle, which promptly flew off. In the park there are areas of dead eucalyptus trunks that have been set into circles for rabbit habitats and they also appear to be excellent for little owls as we spotted them sitting on the trunks. We had a brief stop at the Visitors’ Centre which is really lovely – huge windows looking over an area. We were also spotting a lot of kestrels and drove out to where there were several lesser kestrels sitting on a wire.

Lunch was at the same bar in El Rocio and while eating the weather was clearing up. After lunch we had an hour before setting off again so Joe and I walked along the waterside a bit further than the church (we didn’t go into the church though). In the large area by the church we watched a horse being trained which was interesting. Then back into the park.

We headed toward one of the hunting lodges (the park used to be a royal hunting park), but didn’t really get close enough to see the lodge/palace. But we did get out for a walk. Saw hoopoe, meadow pipit, corn bunting, Thekla’s larks, lapwings, golden plovers, black redstarts, red kites, woodlarks, and crested larks among others.

Back for another huge supper – the restaurant was closed, but they did supper for us (we ordered in advance). We did drinks before dinner and our checklist of things spotted. Then another huge meal (starter, main, and pudding for meals).

So we didn’t take a laptop on this trip. For once. But Joe took loads of photos and they’ll be on Flickr at some point. And I took notes while we travelled and now updating with dates as they happened.

We stayed at the Premier Inn at Gatwick before leaving. We thought about it and we think this is the first pre-set trip we’ve taken, where flights, transportation, and schedule are set before we book. So it’s a test to see what we think of doing this sort of thing, especially now we aren’t walking as much. Our flight was early so we were up early and got the bags dropped off. Had breakfast at the airport (don’t recommend Wagamamas for breakfast – lunch or supper yes, but breakfast wasn’t as nice). The flight wasn’t too full and we had three seats to ourselves. Joe was scoping out the other travellers to see if he could spot the others on the trip and the guide. We did see two others, but not the guide – he introduced himself in the passport control line! Got through immigration, got our bags (again the guide grabbed them, going to have to get used to that!), and we were off. We had taken off from London in fog and rain and landed in sunny Spain!

Piled into the van – small group with only five of us and the guide so we all had a window. The drive to El Rocio was nice and El Rocio itself interesting. All dirt/sand roads as it’s set up for horses, so is the origin of the ‘old west’ town. All low mission buildings, limited pavements, dirt roads, and railings in front of everything for tying up horses. The bars have tall shelves in front so you can ride your horse up and drink without dismounting – which we saw while we were having lunch. We went straight for lunch when we arrived and of course we didn’t get the name of the bar where we had lunch for two days! But the food was very good – we had the bean stew and then a platter of grilled meat with chips was brought out. The food on the trip was very good and lots of it! We ate more at one meal then we normally eat in a day.

After lunch we got checked into the hotel (Hotel Toruño) where we had a room on the first floor with a view out over Charco de la boca. We were there long enough to drop bags, have a quick admire of the view, sort out camera and binoculars, then we were off in a Coto Doñana ranger van to see the park. The only way to see the park is by ranger, so really the only way to see the area is through booking a trip and even then you only get the edges of the park. There are areas of mixed use – so farm land and other uses, but the main bit of the park is closed. The national parks in Spain where you can see lynx are heavily controlled and closed to people, so if you want to see them you have to hope they come out toward the edges where you’re allowed!

So we did a slow drive through – the main way is the Royal Way which is still a horse track that goes to Sevilla – and we did a turn off this into the park. We saw lots of birds, loads of deer (red deer), and rabbits. Highlights were a common buzzard, stonechats, little owl, Spanish sparrows, and a lynx. The lynx was spotted on our way out just trotting along the path next to a bloke on a horse (we think it was the same man and horse at the bar during lunch). Then it ducked into a bush so after waiting a while we headed on to other areas. On the way out we passed a couple of other tours, one of which saw the lynx pop its head out of the bush then back in, so we raced back to where we’d seen it and waited. Sure enough, out it came, across the track, then decided to hunt something in another bush so we got to watch it stalk and pounce. Either it missed or swallowed whatever before it came back out because it didn’t look like it had anything. A young male, just under a year old.

Back to the hotel where we went down to the water to watch the sunset and saw loads of water birds and bats – Leisler’s Noctule and Soprano Pipistrelle. Then off to dinner – the hotel has a restaurant next to it and we had a table at the back.

Last day at the Parador, had a mimosa at breakfast – hadn’t seen anyone else open the champagne but decided to give it a go with the orange juice. Was being ever so discrete until the top went ‘bang’. But it was a nice drink.

We spent some time sitting on our balcony watching the waves – rather large waves – come in, then headed out, inspired by (get name of cartoon) which Joe was watching on telly, to find the trail. Which trail? The one that was the recommended way back to the Parador from La Restinga – it did the bus, change at El Pinar (well, pay the next bus fare, but stay on the bus), get off the bus at Las Casas and walk for 48 minutes. So we headed out of the Parador and went left instead of right and walked to almost the end of the dead end road. Never did see exactly where the path went up the mountain but were very glad we didn’t try that route! Saw another kestrel – there are loads of them!

There was a path down the rocky beach and we headed down. There was wind and the ocean was really rolling, so I found a place to sit and watch while Joe went down to stand in the surf. Of course the inevitable happened and a large wave got him – luckily only to the knees and he rescued his phone and wallet before they got wet. So we sat on the beach and watched the waves and birds until his shorts dried (didn’t take as long as we thought) before heading back. Definitely had some weather coming in and the swells were huge. Breaking over the garden wall and into the pool (which is closed due to erosion and you could see why).

Dinner and early to bed because we had to be up at 5 for the taxi at 6 and ferry at 7. Turns out if you leave before breakfast is served they prepare a picnic. It’s in a lovely cloth bag and contains: juice, water, banana, croissant with pot of jam, cake (which is so good!), bagel with jamon, and bagel with smoked El Hierro cheese. So we’ve nibbled on one bag through the day and have the second for the plane tomorrow. We were early down for the taxi and when it arrived it was an electric taxi – different from the rather rattling car that picked us up! It was dark when we arrived on El Hierro and it was dark when we left. So we pretty much snoozed on the ferry back, though woke up to see La Gomera go past.

Stopped at the port for a coffee then walked to the hotel – same place we stayed on the first night. We were far too early for check in but wanted to store our bags – pleasantly surprised to check right in and go straight to the room. Joe isn’t feeling well (yes, I’m cross) so he’s been resting and snoozing, though we did get out for a walk. It’s a huge change from La Gomera and El Hierro and very crowded. For our final Canary Island meal we had paella, which was really nice.

Slept in a bit, actually we woke up very early but decided we could sleep a bit more. Up and sorted then off to meet the taxi. It was a few minutes late due to traffic but we were at the airport in plenty of time to have a coffee and more of our Parador breakfast. The flight was also a bit late but wasn’t full so it wasn’t too bad. We splurged on a taxi home and didn’t actually get caught in much traffic. So overall not a bad travel back, though it is dark, cold, dark, and wet.

Had a slow day yesterday, but we did walk out to El Roque de La Bonanza and took photos. Saw the recreaction area, with swimming and large grilling area and we may go off there tomorrow if it’s warm. But otherwise just took it easy.

Today we had a taxi collect us to take us to La Restinga for a whale watching tour. As we headed off Joe got a message saying it was cancelled but we decided to go ahead as it would let us see more of the island. It was over an hour down to the south of the island and we walked around La Restinga and confirmed the cancellation. Watched people and boats and Joe took photos. We then decided instead of a taxi back we’d try out the buses. So got a bus about the time our tour would have started and headed back. Had a brief stop at El Pinar where we had to buy another ticket, but stayed on the same bus. Then to Valverde. We walked around a bit but it’s very steep roads and we weren’t sure where things were so we again looked out over the town and took photos before hopping on the bus to the Parador. We did see birds, goats, and cats! As well as people watching.

It was nice to see a bit more of the island. There are larger flat areas for agriculture than on La Gomera, but it also looks much more like a volcano with a lot of black rock and lava flows. There was also a pine forest we drove through. We could have seen more with a rental car but it was nice to sit back and let someone else drive! The roads are twisty as you have to climb up to get anywhere!

Monday started well, got up early, had breakfast, and down to the harbour to go whale watching. Were far too early, as is normal, so found a bench and watched the boats. Saw the ferry come in and so checked the timings and realised we can get the ferry back to San Sebastian when we leave and it will be on time to get the afternoon ferry back to Tenerife. So we’re sorted for Thursday. But then we got a call saying whale watching was cancelled due to wind. So no spending the morning on a boat. Met up with four other people who were also there to go on the trip and who had not received a call (found out later one pair had but hadn’t answered!) So we waited until after ten and several phone calls – our options were to try to get to Valle Gran Rey tomorrow morning or do the trip on Thursday. Well, we’re leaving on Thursday and don’t care to try to get to the other town tomorrow morning (not even sure what time we’d have to be there but it would involve a taxi and faff to get back so). So no whale watching from La Gomera. We do have another whale watching trip planned for El Hierro (if we can get to the port).

So a slow wander back to the hotel, check to see if the tour person was there (she was not and wasn’t all day so have to sort that tomorrow). Then back to the room and as the day was disappointing anyway, we decided to do some hand washing. So have clean clothes for the rest of the trip now. We also found out the Laguna is closed from Wednesday for a private event, so will have to do our last day at our favourite pool tomorrow. We did have lunch by the main pool today and it was quite nice.

So we had a lazy couple of days at the last hotel. Spent Tuesday lazing by the Laguna pool (salt water) and a bit of swim. It did look like the pool was open on Wednesday with everything else shut off but we stayed up at the main complex and rested. Too hazy to see the Geminids though – we had haze from the Sahara the last few days.

Thursday got up early and had a quick breakfast before getting out bags and hoping in a taxi to the port (only a few minutes by car but ages by foot, especially with rucksacks). We had thought we’d go by road to San Sebastian for the ferry to Tenerife, but decided the ferry was easier and we’d seen the drive in. Were early (of course) so watched the sun through the haze while waiting. Rode on the upper deck to San Sebastian where we had a long layover (arrived just after 9 and our ferry to Tenerife didn’t go until 2pm) and we had to wait for the 10:30 ferry to put our bags in. Once we’d put our bags in the lockers for the ferry, we went for a brief wander around. We went into the Iglesia de La Asunción (church) and found out the whole festival things we’d seen early was probably to do with the Virgin of Guadalupe – not the Mexican one which is what I was thinking! So we’ve possibly seen the statue, maybe. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bajada_(festival) Or if you can read Spanish: https://guadalupegomera.com/ or https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Virgen_de_Guadalupe_(La_Gomera) The Bajada only happens every 5 years, so we got the 2023 one. Loads of shops selling things related, but we resisted.

Rode on the upper deck outside back to Tenerife, but haze was so bad La Gomera disappeared quickly and couldn’t see Tenerife until we were nearly there. It was funny because everything I was reading indicated you could see Tenerife from some of the lookouts on La Gomera on a clear day – actually you can see Tenerife from just about everywhere on La Gomera – well all the bits facing toward Tenerife. We could see it from the beach by our hotel. It was only the last couple of days with the haze that we couldn’t see it.

We had a shorter wait in Tenerife, so grabbed lunch at the port and watched the people. The ferry loading was a lot more casual – Joe saw people heading that way so we followed and ended up on the ferry. Armas isn’t as slick as Fred Olsen, but it wasn’t a bad ride – two and half hours, but most was in the dark. So we arrived at El Hierro in the dark, found our taxi, and were driven to the Parador. Couldn’t see much of where we’d arrived (and I think we go back in the dark as well!) just the road ahead (twisty again) and vaguely what was alongside (much more shrub than La Gomera – we think). At one point we sat at a traffic light for absolutely ages, then when it finally turned green we turned into a one lane tunnel which was quite long!

The Parador is toward the end of a dead end road, right on the sea with the mountain right behind it. We got checked in and offered a sea view room, which we took. Turns out we’ve probably got the best room in the whole place – upper level, right on the corner, with a wrap around balcony overlooking the sea and views of the mountian. Had a lovely dinner, tried to watch for Geminids from our balcony but still hazy, and then fell asleep to the sound of the sea. When we woke up we had a brilliant view of the sunrise over the sea (still hazy) and finally saw the view which is spectacular. There isn’t much here though, including walks, and the pool is closed due to erosion from the sea, so we are taking it easy on the balcony watching the sea and thinking about a walk later.

So the bits and pieces we may have missed out. First, the drive yesterday through the Laurel forest was a bit scary. It was the first time we’d been up there without any cloud – glorious day, bright sunshine and no clouds at all, not even a bit of mist. But that meant on some of the turns the road simply disappeared in the contrast between bright sun and shade under the trees. And by disappear I mean you couldn’t see anything, not even the car in front – or just the bare moving shadow of a car in front. And this was usually right at a twist in the road. So we were moving very slowly and carefully – though there were only about three places where the light difference was that bad it was scary enough that there was a queue of cars all creeping along!

Joe says they could save money on signs if they just mark the straight bits. Would only need a couple of signs then.

So we’ve not seen much in the ways of mammels – just dogs, cats and goats. The cats are usually semi-feral. And not as many birds as we’d hoped. We definitely heard Bolle’s pigeons in the forest, but only caught glimpses of movement and birds flying off. We’ve seen a lot of kestrals and gulls, but no confirmed shearwaters. Canary Chiffchaffs and canaries, greenfinches, and nothing else that we can defnitely identify. So it goes.

Today is a rest day by the pool. With champagne for breakfast. Though Joe had pancakes, fried egg, streaky bacon, and mushrooms and called it a Canadian breakfast. With no maple syrup at all, not even the palm honey they have here. I say it can’t be Canadian without sweet tree sap (though Joe did point out palms aren’t trees, even though they are palm trees).