The Purple Penguin

Today was museum day. Got up earlier and got out and on the way to Museuminsel. Once off the S-bahn Joe said we were early (we only had about 40 minutes to get there! But Joe said early!) so we stopped for coffee and bread. And then we could get to the Neus Museum and wait for it to open. Headed straight for Nefertiti and were possibly the first ones there as we were the only ones in there! It was nice to have the space to stop and look. Stunning piece. Then a wander around the Neus Museum with Joe muttering about time. For some reason.

We then joined the queue for the Pergamonmuseum. The Ishtar Gate is the first thing you see currently, go through that and see the Roman Gates. The whole museum was large gates – or seemed that way. There is still building work going on (should be completed by 2025) so most of the Pergamonmuseum is closed and no access to the Pergamon alter. But still nice to have a look around.

Then off to the Altes Museum with Etruscan, Greek, and Roman statues. Joe was getting grumpy despite stopping for a drink. So didn’t spend long there and headed over to the Humboldt Box to see the work they are doing on the palace. Really really nice reconstruction with a modern wing along the water. Should be a beautiful museum when finished. And the Humboldt Forum is named for both brothers – one for founding the university and the other as a scientist (Joe would like me to point out that there is a penguin named for him, amongst lots and lots of other things).

Then back to the art and the Alte Museum and primarily 19th century painting, which isn’t my favourite. We scooted through that very quickly (though Joe complained we were in there too long) and headed for the Bode Museum. Medieval to 17th century, but much more gothic and medieval than later things. Also saw some of the ‘Trojan Treasure’.

Interesting to read some of the descriptions – the second world war was presented as something awful that German’s caused and should never be repeated because much of the art was destroyed. But the most interesting was how many displays had ‘these items were stolen by the Russians and kept, breaking international law!’

So, Joe’s reward, pictured above. After he dragged me out of the Bode we went to a place recommended by one of his work colleagues. A craft brewery with restaurant. And Joe got the tasting rack as above. We had a starter as he tried each of the beers. Then he ordered one of the nasty things and we had dinner. Our first ‘traditional’ German meal. It’s been so hot we’ve been eating very light meals and usually Asian! So today Joe had a knuckle of pork with sauerkraut, mash, and mash peas; and I had the sausage platter with three different sausages and potatoes fried with onions and bacon. Very meat heavy, but very nice!

And I get another museum tomorrow!

Up earlier this morning, thought we’d get coffee and wait for the boat tour, but no coffee, only the full breakfast. Hmmmm. So we sat and watched the boats go by (did we mention we’re staying right on the river? Cause we are. Can see it from our room.) It was another lovely morning (we are here during a heat wave – sunshine and 30C most days. I’m loving it, Joe is melting.) The boat arrived right on time, we got on (though they almost lost me as they hadn’t properly secured the gangplank, new hire I think, but no harm done), and off we went in German and English. We were sat on the sundeck and we got sun (Joe melted). Got our coffee and sat back for four relaxing hours watching Berlin slip by. Even got to go through three locks! Definitely recommend the boat tour, the long loop one is interesting.

Joe will have to go through his photos and upload to flickr!

We then headed back to the hotel, dumped camera, sorted out stuff, and right back out to the S-bahn and into the centre. Ate lunch and then went to the DDR Museum. That is a interesting museum! Played with loads, though didn’t get to drive the Trabi as the queue was awful; I was waiting but we got this really odd bloke who was shoving his way to the front of everything – he tried to shove in front of us to get tickets to go in, but the man selling the tickets didn’t let him. Quite odd. The museum is very hands on – open everything, poke at stuff, read, watch TV, answer the phone, watch old films. Really interesting.

Then back to the hotel where we’ve had a g&t while watching the river and people go by. Going to shower off (did I mention it is hot?) and head out for dinner.

So slept in again, so not out and about until gone 10. Stopped at the front desk of the hotel and bought one day travel cards for the metro, buses, trams. Our plan was to ride the rails and see what we saw. So off to the Museum area first and bought three day museum tickets (yay – tomorrow, Wednesday, and Thursday – museums!) Joe got lots of photos. Then back to the metro and off to the Olympic Stadium. Got to the stadium on the S-bahn trains, walked around the stadium (more photos) and to the U-bahn and back to the centre. Off to Nordbahnhof and the wall memorial. It’s been left pretty much in situ, with no man’s land and the two bits of the wall. Interesting to see and Joe got more photos. We also saw the information about the Ghost Stations and videos/photos. Then my sandal broke. So back to the room to find some outdoor shops to replace the sandals.

So Berlin. Joe was in Holland for work stuff, so I came over on the ferry and met up with him on the train in Hengelo. Long journey! Left work at 5 on Friday, up to Harwich and on the ferry, dinner and sleep, in Hoek van Holland at 8 and off. Didn’t get on the train to Berlin until 3pm but was in Hengelo by noon – I hit all the connections just right and was over an hour earlier than I thought I’d be. Especially with rail works around Rotterdam! So I walked around Hengelo and had lunch – no left luggage there so I had to carry the bag which limited how far I could go. But I found a market with a live band – brass – playing blues and disco! Fun. Got on the train, found Joe – we had a whole little compartment to ourselves, and watched Germany go by. Got into Berlin about twenty past seven, so that was a long trip. But lovely.

Off to the hotel from the station and we’re staying right on the river, lovely hotel, lovely area. So dinner at the hotel last night and straight to bed.

Slept in – we’re on holiday! So left quite late in the morning and just walked all over. Crossed the river and headed along the park along the river walk to the Government district. Can’t get tickets to go up the dome but had a walk around the district. Then down to the Brandenburg Gate and the Holocaust Memorial. We didn’t go into the exhibit there, but did walk around the blocks. Then headed for Checkpoint Charlie, via Potsdamer Plaza.

Saw bits of the Berlin wall along our walk, but at Checkpoint Charlie there is a museum. It looks a very small museum, but once you’re upstairs it just keeps going! Lots of information about the wall and the people who helped people across – many of the same people who’d been in the German resistance fighting the Nazis. Interesting.

We then headed out along the longest section of wall remaining and an interesting exhibit on the Nazis on the site of the gestapo headquarters. From there walked back to the hotel through the park. So a very long day of walking and seeing the top sites!

Well, we did more today than I thought we’d be doing! After going and wishing the birthday person a very happy 100th birthday (and she was looking spry for 100) we headed out toward Lexington and Four Roses brewery. Joe picked it because the buildings looked interesting and because we were told the whiskey was much better now. My idea of Four Roses bourbon was a nasty harsh cheap rotgut. But we were assured that they had started brewing much better bourbon and we should give it a try. So off we went. Got there a bit after the noon tour started, but they let us join that tour. It was very interesting. We got history, how the bourbon is made, and then a walk around the grounds and then into the distillery. Got to see and taste the mash and then a tasting session at the end. And everyone was correct, the bourbon is much much nicer now and the single barrel is lovely. Hope we can get it at home!

We then had lunch and pottered back to Richmond. Another visit for the birthday and photos, then off for dinner at Hangers. We made the mistake of getting a starter as well as our main course and we finally managed to leave very very full! Now just relaxing before shopping and maybe another distillery tour tomorrow.

So, long update ahead!

On Sunday got together for breakfast with family – large amount of food at Cracker Barrel (this is a tradition with Joe, must have at least one Cracker Barrel breakfast in Kentucky). Then we got on the road. I64 to Blue Ridge Parkway. Got to Peaks of Otter Lodge with no problems – really lovely area and nice lodge. Met up with friend and had a lovely dinner. The restaurant at the lodge is very good. And then lots of sitting looking at the lake chatting over a drink. Cause every room has a view over the lake from a back porch.

So to Monday. Our friend was up early and saying he saw an otter crunching a fish. I missed the otter. And the turtle. But saw a turtle floating in the lake. So into breakfast. Which was very nice (did I recommend the restaurant at the lodge yet?) But friend had the Sharp Peak breakfast. So that meant we had to go up to Sharp Peak. So after a bit of doing bits and pieces that is what we did. Well, Joe and friend went to the peak (friend would probably like me to mention that he did that with a 15 month old child on his back, thank you very much, while I wussed out about half way and just watched the birds and butterflies).  There is a black bear in the area with two cubs, but obviously there were enough people around talking that the bear decided the area was best vacated. So no bear spotting, though I did hear something moving in the underbrush. Probably a bird. Oh and we did a fawn on the way up!

As I was sitting on a rock watching things, I noticed a huge storm moving our way and could hear the thunder rumbling. One group passed me and stopped to say that Joe and co had just reached the top as they were heading down, so I knew where they were. Then another stopped and said they were hanging out in the hut in the top. I had a look at the storm, listening to the thunder, and decided I’d rather be off the mountain than wait! So headed down. Got most of the way when the rain started and it really opened up when I could see the shelter at the bottom – stupid rain! But I didn’t get too wet. However, Joe and friend did! They got caught about .1 mile from the bottom (they were next to the sign when the downpour started, handy). So they were about 15 minutes behind me.

Joe is working on the photos for flickr!

So sat in the shelter and watched the downpour and when it eased up we headed for the country store and ranger station. The power had been knocked out so the store couldn’t sell anything (and a note that they do not have beer or wine! Or booze). So back to the room round the lake (so we did manage a full circuit of the lake) to dry off and warm up a bit. Friend picked up a bottle of pinot and we sat and watch the lake and the storms moving through – Sharp Peak was shrouded in cloud. But that all blew over and we had a lovely evening.

Back to the restaurant for dinner – three fried chicken. That’s a wait of about 20 minutes while they cook the chicken. But we were stymied because without power they couldn’t fry anything. So we dithered – friend was in the rec room playing with child, so Joe was going back and forth. Steak. Yeah, we could do steak. So back up and as Joe got to me the power came back up. So it was fried chicken after all! And boy was it worth it. Lovey light coating and crunchy and very very good. And way too much for someone who only went about half way up the mountain. Have I recommended the restaurant? Because it is excellent.

We all ended up early in bed which meant on Tuesday morning I was wide awake at 5am. So I dragged on some clothes and my boots and headed outside. Still dark, very dark as there was lots of cloud cover. I listened to everything waking up and then saw the sky go all pink, but that was in the west between the two peaks. So I knew it wasn’t the sun. Stood and watched as a full moon (or near as) appeared through the clouds between the peaks, it was lovely with the mist coming up off the lake. Behind me the sun started to come up over the lodge and the birds became more active. As it got lighter the frogs started jumping in to the lake, so you’d get the deep croak of a bullfrog then plop. And then, as I was getting cold and ready to go back in, I saw a wake. Kept watching and sure enough a little head peeked up, then the otter dove into the reeds. Eventually reappeared a bit further off with a fish. So I got to see the otter after all!

After breakfast we all packed up and headed off – friend back to DC and us down the parkway. We drove and looked at fog off overlooks – it was a wet day. Saw several deer, cardinals, large raptors, lots of little brown birds, and some big ones! But not enough to id anything (besides someone forgot the bird book!) We drove south as far as Mabry Mill before turning off and headed back toward Kentucky. We took 58 W just about the entire way and a warning – once you get along that highway, about the time you’re thinking of maybe finding a place for dinner and a stop, there is nothing. Not a thing. Well, there was a park and ride, but we never did figure out where you’d ride to. Because there was nothing until Kentucky (and seriously, you go over the border and there are tons of places!) and by that time we were close enough to our destination that, aside from a brief “hmmm, should we stay in London?”, we just headed on here. So here we are.

Not much more to update after this. The rest is family visit and shopping!

Visiting the great-aunt on pre-100 birthday party. We went up to Richmond to get together with the family to celebrate the birthday – a few days before the actual day! We had the mayor give a speech and certificate. She also got a letter from one of her representatives (of course, whether or not he is her representative depends on which party he is in!) Don’t know if she’ll get a card from the president! There was also a bit of singing. Family provided drinks and nibbles (those sandwiches were good) and the home provided the punch and cake.  There was also a good crowd there!

After the party and clean up, we headed out for some shopping and got a great shirt! Photos to follow!

Then just hung out with family while finishing up the leftovers from the party.

So we’re in Bruges.

When we got to the hotel yesterday we asked for a recommendation for dinner – steak and fries – and the reception made a reservation for us at Maximiliaan ban Oostenrijk. So we headed out to the restaurant, got a little lost and turned around, and finally found the place. Had a nice table by the fire and ordered lots of food. Starter and main and then we shared sorbet. Joe had the salmon on toast starter, I got tomato soup (thick and rich), and we got the T-bone steak for two. Which came out on two plates cut, with a huge bowl of salad, another huge bowl of chips, and a gravy boat of pepper sauce. That was very filling. Then Joe ordered sorbet – raspberry, lemon, and passion fruit. And coffee and Joe had a whiskey. Lovely meal and we staggered out well stuffed. On the way out we passed the larger fireplace with the grill for cooking the meat – yep, right over a nice wood fire. Lovely.

We then walked around the area. After the tour buses leave the city is quiet; you can walk around the streets and along the canals. So we look at St John’s hospital lit up on the water, walked around the Church of Our Lady and over the canal at Saint Bonifacius bridge which is lovely at night. We also walked along toward the main square, but then turned back. I was sure I was seeing lighting but Joe kept saying it was tourists taking flash photos. He was wrong.

Got back to the hotel full and sleepy. Just as I was falling asleep  the thunderstorm started – lots of thunder and lighting. That seems to the be theme of our holidays this year!

Up in the morning, showered and dressed, coffee in the room before heading out. We headed for the main square, with a detour to walk around St John’s Hospital and through the courtyards, and had a look around the square (mainly at the tourists starting to queue up for the horse and carriage tours), I found the Pierre Marcolini shop, Joe got a couple of photos, then we headed out toward the edge of the old town. Got to the windmills just as a big dark cloud came over – luckily there were two pubs to chose from, so we ducked into one as the rain started and had drinks (coffee for me, beer for Joe) and watched the rain. It blew over rather quickly, so we walked up to the windmill and had a look (didn’t go in – didn’t go in anywhere!) then walked along the canal, before turning back onto Langestraat and heading back into the town. Got to a square where we stopped for lunch. Then a walk around a market and back around the canals – watching the tourists queue up for the boat tours. They really pack the boats full and then zoom around the canals quickly to get back for the next boat full. Joe was comparing it to a Disney ride and wondered if they shot at the hippo on the way around.

Having walked most of Bruges we found ourselves walking past the hotel, so decided to head in and have a rest and let the tourists go home. The streets were packed, barely able to walk packed! We figure we’ll head back out around fourish for a walk through the park. I’ll let Joe update later, when he isn’t snoring.

The museums are all closed tomorrow, so we won’t have actually gone into anywhere! The main historical museum is closed for renovations, so we’ll have to come back to go inside places for a look around. Tomorrow we’re probably walking a bit more, before heading back to Hoek van Holland and the ferry home.

So Joe has been working in Amsterdam all week, leaving me all on my own. Except last night I got on the ferry and came over. Got to Rotterdam and got on the 09.58 train to Antwerp. Joe got on the 09.18 from Amsterdam to Antwerp. I booked the tickets separately. Our seats were across from each other. Now that is planning.

Antwerp train station is pretty nifty – lots of levels with trains! Four levels – we came in on the bottom level and left on the top level. So nifty! And do read the link – apparently the design is interesting.

So the the first thing we did in Antwerp was sort our tickets to Bruges. Then walked all over the historic district of Antwerp – well, after stopping for brunch. So an eggy omelette thing with bacon and bread and coffee later we were walking in the historic district of Antwep. Saw the main square, apparently there is a bollock festival (according to Joe, actually it’s Bollekesfeest, ok, same difference)  and walked along the river. Walked around Het Steen (giggled at the Lange Wapper statue – Joe will have to put that on Flickr!) and back through Antwerp to the station. To find out that tickets bought in a machine at Antwerp must be used within an hour. So ours are no good. The man at the ticket office was very nice, very helpful, talked us through the entire claim process, sorted out new tickets, told us the train we needed, printed a schedule, talked us through the changes, highlighted the information we needed – all the while we were smiling and nodding and fretting; because, the train he was talking about left in five minutes. And we needed to get our luggage from left luggage and find the platform (four levels, remember?) We got sorted and found the platform (luckily not far from the left luggage), but in the end our tickets were never checked! We’re going to see if we can use the original tickets to get back. Or maybe just go straight for the Netherlands.

So across to Ghent; we were there long enough to scoot from platform 4 to platform 12 and the train to Bruges. Got to Bruges and headed for the Hotel Academie where Joe got in the bath and I relaxed and rested. The walk through Bruges was lovely and I’m looking forward to seeing everything tomorrow. But for now we’re out for flamed grilled meat and frites!