The Purple Penguin

Slept in a bit after lots of wine with paella for dinner. Out of the hotel to find food – decided to take the metro today and head straight to Palau Guell, Gaudi’s early building. So off the metro and Joe spotted the Mercat de la Boqueria – large colourful, well stocked market – and he headed straight for it. We wandered about until we found a place to sit and have breakfast. I had an omelette, but Joe got Catalonya sausage and haricot beans, which was lovely if a bit garlicy. Then back around the market so Joe could get photos and finally off down La Ramblas to the Palau.

The Palau Guell is lovely. Really beautiful rooms, but very little furniture or decoration. Very focused on  the architecture and Gaudi’s design and work. I loved it, Joe got a bit bored.

Once Joe escaped from architecture tour, we headed toward Barcelonetta, which is where we spent most of our time when we were here before. We wanted to sit and have a drink, so we found a really nice little place. Cost a bit more due to the fact that it was a boat cruise which took us out of the harbour and along the coast for about an hour and a half. Very nice and a place to sit and have a cold drink.

Then the metro to the Segrada – we didn’t go in as it was packed, but walked around the outside noting the differences. I need to come back to see the work inside!

Now back at the hotel getting ready to head back out to La Ramblas to meet up with people and have dinner (tapas!)

So, Joe has been here for a week. Well, just outside Barcelona at his skillshare meeting. Had a good time, but didn’t quite manage to drink the bar dry – this time. Ah, he’s just explained that that may be because everyone brought loads of alcohol, probably because the last few skillshares they ran out. Not that they drink at these very important meetings.

And I was suppose to come to Barcelona today to join him. He was going to get here and check in then meet my train from Paris. Only the French are revolting and my train was cancelled. And I found out about it Thursday afternoon. So a frantic afternoon of checking trains and ferries and flights – ended up with an EasyJet flight leaving Friday afternoon. So I arrived a bit earlier than I was going to, but had to survive an entire EasyJet flight full of stag do ‘lads’. Yeah. But I made it and actually got to the hotel an hour before Joe. Cause his plan to meet me so I didn’t get lost? Yeah, he got lost.  He just said he didn’t get lost, he just ended up sort of in the wrong place.

All ended well and we found each other and have a very nice hotel room. We rested a bit and caught up on what we’d been doing, then headed out for a short walk and dinner. Had a nice paella and drinks, then a wander back seeing the fountains at Montjuc (Magic fountains of Montjuc), now back at the room. Joe is watching Netherlands beat Spain at football.

So the Rijksmuseum has reopened and Joe had to be in Amsterdam – reasons to go to Amsterdam!

While Joe worked I wondered around the city. We arrived Thursday morning, off the overnight ferry, so were a bit tired on Thursday. I walked from the hotel down to the offices taking my time and arriving about the time Joe was finishing up. We then headed out to dinner with his colleague. Drinks by the water while discussing where to go and his colleague suggested a really nifty sounding place on the other side of the harbour – where I’d never been. So yay, off we go.

At first the place was really nice – sort of a greenhouse building with lots of seating outside and around. As we went up Joe said ‘this is like Glastonbury!’ So we find our table – which is right in the centre of the place (this is important!) – and check the menu and specials. We order. Our drinks arrived and we were told that part of our order was no longer available, so we changed the order. Then we waited. And then we waited. And waited.  And waited a bit more. Finally asked where the starter was and waited a bit longer. It turned up, but missing parts so we got that sorted and ate the starter which was nice. Then went back to waiting. And waiting. And waiting. We had to ask again where our food was and was told it was on the way. So we waited. Now at this point it’s getting late and we hadn’t yet checked in at the hotel (just dropped the bags off as we were far too early to check in). So we ring the hotel to let them know we’d a bit later than we thought. And went back to waiting. Finally dinner turns up and it was good, but really not worth the wait or the cost (despite the discount we got). Worst service we’ve ever had – but it was funny the following day.

So after all that we didn’t get to the hotel until nearly midnight (we were at the restaurant for about 7.30). The hotel staff actually recognised Joe (he’s been there far too often without me!) and asked if we’d had a good day. Joe just said ‘until tonight!’ And finally to the room – which was really nice and much much larger than most in Amsterdam.  So I highly recommend the Conscious Hotel Vondalpark (haven’t stayed at the one near the Museumplein). The staff are really nice, the rooms are comfortable, and they have a really nice seating area downstairs. We didn’t do the breakfast (it is a bit expensive) but Joe has had it in the past and says it’s nice.

Friday Joe had to work again (awwww) so I slept in a bit (having got in so late the night before) then headed out to the Willet-Holthuysen Museum, which is a canal house built in the 17th century. In the 19th century the last owner willed it to the city – she and her husband were collectors and the house and collections were left – as long as it was opened to the public. It is currently being restored to how it looked when it was handed over to the city, but at the moment it still has some rooms done in 17th or 18th century style. It is a really nice building to wander around.

I then headed to the Amsterdam Museum – got a discount as the Willet-Holthuysen is part of the Amsterdam Museum. It is a really nice building and really interesting to wander around. Some great exhibits. Of course Joe rang to say he was done at work long before I was done at the museum! So had to leave to meet up for drinks and dinner at Stoop en Stoop, a Dutch restaurant. Really good pea and sausage soup!

And finally Saturday and the reason we were in Amsterdam (forget that boring work stuff) – the newly refurbished Rijksmuseum! Walked across the Vondalpark (that was one thing, though it was a bit cloudy at times, we had wonderful weather, perfect for walking around the city and through the parks) and got to the museum just as it was opening. No one queued up at all, so we were quickly in and looking at masterpieces. It did fill up quickly though – trying to see the Hall of Honour is difficult especially the major works (Night Watch and the Milkmaid). But the whole museum is really nice – with lots to see. We spent most of the day there (until Joe starting asking to leave, I could have stayed longer). Then walked back through the Vondalpark, taking our time and stopping for a drink. Got the ferry early – the hotel is right near Lelylaan station and you can get trains to Schiedam and from there to Hoek and the ferry.

So today was a walking day. Joe had done Seaton to Lyme Regis yesterday and said it wasn’t as nice as you don’t really get any sea views, so we decided to go the other way to Beer Point. Making jokes about being in Beer the whole time (Beer Sailing Club, Beer Town Hall, Devon cream tea Beer).

It’s a lovely walk and fairly easy, though lots of climbing and then going back down. We started along the beach, as the coastal path has a large hole, so it detours around by road, or by the beach. The beach is nicer even if it is hard walking on the rocks. Then a climb up Seaton Hole and back along the cliff tops with views over the sea and Seaton. The climb down into Beer is very steep – so steep they’ve put in steps. Beer is a lovely little village, with a small river (more a ditch) running down the main street. Lots of cute little shops, though we didn’t see much on the way out as we kept heading toward the point. Another steep climb up to the point but worth the views out over the coast line. We found a couple of spots and Joe took photos while I checked out the bird life and bunnies. Then the flowers and bugs. Joe still took photos.

Coming down from the point we stopped off in Beer so Joe could have a beer. Then we walked up the main street and on the way back to the walk got an ice cream (yum) and sat over looking over the beach finishing them. We didn’t go down to the beach (another flight or three of stairs down to that!) Joe thinks the beach at Beer is very regulated – they have walkways over the pebbles and the deck chairs are all in neat rows. Then back along the path to Seaton. Once we got back we walked along the beach to the old concrete bridge (oldest still standing) and sat and watched the harbour.

The weather was, yet again, wonderful. Very warm and bright sunshine and we’re now officially sunburnt.

We’re now back in the room, having a drink and watching Wimbledon. We’ll get washed up and head out for dinner at The Shed later.

So I left the B&B and strolled along the seafront. It was quite cool as the breeze was blowing in from the sea with a slight mist. Passed over the old bridge which was build in 1877 and claims to be the first ever concrete bridge and then followed the coastal path around to the largest steepest hill in the UK. So far. This got me to the golf course where I followed the little white fossils through the golf course; there were a few people around on the course. Then I went into a series of wheat fields which was very pleasant – mist blowing in and birdsong. Finally got to a sign which told me once I passed I couldn’t get off – no sea or inland access (though I suppose you could turn around and flee if you want). Followed the coastal path and it immediately went into woodland and large hedgerows, in some places the hedgerows fully enclosed the path, like a tunnel, and the path is only one person wide. After a while the path started going up and down and entering the deep, dark wood, where I had to take off my sunglasses to see where I was going. Lots of roots and rocks in the path making the footing tricky and as I got further down it got quite muddy, from streams or where water has pooled. After about two miles of this, I got to where the large slip had happened, not that I could see much as the path is pretty enclosed. After the large slip the path flattened out but still enclosed by trees, so really not a good walk to see the cliffs! But a nice place for trees, irises, hollyhocks, and honeysuckle, with dogroses throughout. Get to the halfway point and there were some old ruins of a pumping station, then a steep climb and much the same as before to Lyme Regis.

I stopped and had a ginger beer at Lyme Regis. Looked at the map and decided to take the detour to Chamouth; the detour caused by the cliff collapse. After another walk along the sea front, it was another steep climb out of Lyme Regis. It spat me out onto a road for a bit, before taking me across another golf course; however, this one was much busier and I had to keep constant lookout and stop to allow play to go through or to make sure they’d seen me and waved me through. (Unfortunately I ran into the not so good golfers.) After dodging through, ducking under, and generally trying to avoid golf balls I ended up on the A35 following the main Chamouth Road to the beach. So much for a coastal path (mind you, it might be better when it’s not a detour.)

Got to the beach where I had a pork pie, cup of tea, and an ice cream. Then waited for Kathleen to finish her three course meal and come pick me up.

So way back in December, we had a gift giving holiday and after much deliberation Joe decided I needed cooking lessons. So he got me a day of cooking at River Cottage and I booked it for 4 July (today) and we built a holiday around it. And this is why we’re pootling about the coast.

I had to be there at 9.30, so I had a small breakfast (or tried to, I got more than I thought I would!) Then headed out – we’d driven the route several times so I knew where to be. We had to wait a bit while everyone turned up – I was thinking it was a huge group, but turns out it was two groups, the cooking group and the beekeeping group. We went down in two tractor trips (tractor pulling a seating car). It’s a steep trip down to the farmhouse and the morning was quite cloudy and chilly.

So we get coffee and scones, which I skipped (breakfast!) and then we started our bread. We’d get a demonstration, then sent off to our work station to do. The space was very nice – all newly rebuilt and I think we were one of the first classes back in! The bread we made was malted wholewheat which I don’t work with (Joe doesn’t much like it) so that was fun. I made mine a bit wet and haven’t tried it yet, so we’ll see how it turned out! I can’t remember the order we cooked everything – some things we’d make a bit of and put to one side, like the panna cotta, others we just did and ate. So we had around lunchtime a loin of pork wrapped in home cured bacon, with sage. We also fried gem lettuce in the same pan which gave it a lovely flavour, with a squeeze of lemon. Very nice. Then for our three course meal around 5pm we had chorizo (which we made from scratch) with broad beans and poached egg; plaice baked oriental style with noodles; and elderflower panna cotta with strawberry syrup. All very good.

All the food was either from the farm (the strawberries were picked that morning, the broad beans were picked just before we used them) or from local producers (the plaice had come in either that morning or the day before and the pork had been butchered over the weekend).  It was a good group though a bit large (close to 20 of us), with four people per work station, and we all worked together (so one of us would get the food, another would get cutting boards, etc.).

We even got into the farmhouse and saw the famous farmhouse kitchen (very tiny, wonder where they put the cameras and lights!) and the dining room and the gardens. So got the tour and a cooking day!

So I’ve eaten my full today and am now in the pub with Joe having a drink.

So to me beachcombing is walking along a sandy beach looking for shells. I said this to Joe and he said  but we are looking for shells. Just they’re a couple hundred million years old and they’re in rocks on rocky beaches! Yeah, all rock beaches is just weird.

Last night we went out to River Cottage Cafe in Axminister and had a very nice meal. Really nice place and well worth a visit, but do book ahead.

Then this morning up a bit later and sorted to head out after breakfast (and the breakfasts at Pebbles are really nice). Got the car and drove to Lyme Regis – our landlady said to drive past the first car park and turn right, keep going down and there’s a car park right at the beach which saves you the long steep climb back up to the first car park (and it is a very long, very steep climb!) So that’s what we did and had an excellent spot. We spent two hours walking the pebbly beach (rocks on a beach is just wrong, it should be sand!) At first I couldn’t see what the fuss was about, what with turning my ankle on the stupid slippy rocks, but then Joe point out a fossil. Then another one. Then a huge one on a rock. Then I started being able to spot them and was hooked. Really nifty! As the tide started to come in we headed into the town and spent several hours walking about and having a quick light lunch. Then back out the other way, but there had been slips so the beach was closed. So we walked along the front again, with Joe getting photos (the sun came out!) before getting the car and trying to find the way to Charmouth.

The beach walk between Lyme Regis and Charmouth is suppose to be good for finding fossils, but due to works being done to protect Lyme Regis you can’t do the whole walk. We spent about 2 hours at Charmouth walking across more rocks! And found some nifty fossils. Nothing really spectacular but I was chuffed to find my own.

As it was getting late we came back to Seaton for dinner and now sleep!

Today was a driving day. Slept in, got up, got breakfast, got packed, took our time, and still were an hour early to pick up the car! They were having trouble with their computer systems, but didn’t mind us there early and got us sorted and on our way. And we took the boring M27/A31/A35 route. Pretty drive, but we’ve lost the lovely weather and today was grey and cold. So not a bad day to be driving. We’ve driven around the area to see what is where and after a bit of driving in circles found our B&B in Seaton! Once settled we walked around for about an hour, found the Tourist Info and picked up all the information about the Jurassic Coast. We are now relaxing at our B&B in Seaton, making plans for the next couple of days and waiting to go out for dinner.

Not the ones at Glastonbury, but the ones along the south coast! We’re off to the Jurassic coast! But first to Portsmouth, after a night of watching the Rolling Stones at Glastonbury (that was pretty wonderful!) (oh, not live, just the BBC coverage. Unfortunately as it looked pretty amazing!)

We got up Sunday and headed off to Waterloo for the train. Taking the train to Portsmouth gets a wonderful discount for the Historic Docks – about £10 off the ticket. So not a bad ride down and once in Portsmouth headed for the hotel, stopping in a square with a TV to watch the start of Silverstone. (everything happening this weekend – Glastonbury, Silverstone, Wimbledon, cricket, Gay Pride, Armed Forces weekend) Once checked in we headed to the docks to sort out our ticket (which is good for one year – so a great value even without the train discount!) and get our timed entry to the Mary Rose Museum (the reason we’re in Portsmouth!) The docks were still packed even though it was about 4pm – we had no idea it was Armed Forces Weekend, so didn’t realise the docks were open with special ships in and loads of free tours. We found that out Monday. Oh well.

Then we walked. Though Gunwharf Quay  – where we stopped for either a very late lunch or a very early supper – and along the waterfront to Southsea where there is a funfair and all the arcades. Lunch/dinner was at Loch Fyne by the harbour and we had seafood. Decided against the lobster though it did look very nice. Nice walk and the weather was wonderful. Loads of people out and on the pebbles, playing in the water and just enjoying the day.

Monday morning up early for some reason, breakfast and a slow walk to the docks. Where we were early so Joe stopped for photos of the Warrior while we waited (photos will go up on Flickr!) Finally in and in the correct queue (rather than wandering around aimlessly as we sort of did on Sunday). Except the people in front of us were not in the correct queue and decided to argue about it. By the time we got to the ticket check they were surprised we had the proper tickets and our Mary Rose times sorted; also seemed rather relieved! So we got in and got to the Mary Rose museum in plenty of time and were even let in early.

The new museum is really good – crowded but we expected that as it’s only just opened. But really well laid out, with lots on exhibit, well described and with plenty of views of the ship – though it will be at least five years before you can really see it as it’s still being restored. It’s in the drying stage so lots of ducts running through and equipment. Still, with the layout of the exhibits opposite the windows showing the ship, it was very atmospheric and you can really get a sense of being on board. We easily spent 2 hours there before leaving to see the Victory.

The Victory is currently undergoing restoration so the masts are down and you can see some of the under planking (which is really interesting!) But it is still open and we got to wander through – though I missed the plaque showing where Nelson was shot. Oh well, our tickets are good for a year so we can go back! The layout is well thought out and a one way system so you don’t miss anything.

Then the harbour tour which was fun. About 45 to 50 minutes around the harbour with commentary and very very very bad puns. Got to see the modern ships which were in port.

After that we were tired, but headed for the Warrior for a last tour. That one isn’t as well laid out as the others – no clear route through, but I think we saw most of it! And our feet and stomachs voted for leaving and finding a place to sit and eat!

We dithered about where to eat, but ended up back at Gunwharf Quay and Jamie’s Italian, which turned out to be a good decision. The food is quite good and we had a huge meal (another of those late lunch/early supper things). After a nice meal we headed back out along the town and then back to the sea front and along to SouthSea castle. By this time it was about 7pm so the castle was closed but we could walk around it, then back to the hotel.

Tomorrow we pick up our hire car and head off to Lyme Regis area and fossils!