The Purple Penguin

Up earlier this morning and breakfast by 7 – sat on the terrace and watched the sun come up while drinking coffee which is a lovely way to start the day. We’d loaded up the car before breakfast so once that was done we headed out. We aimed for Las Creces in Garajonay National Park which is labelled as a short easy loop hike through the forest of about 2 hours. Perfect.

So twist and turn up to the parking area (very small) to find we’re the first ones parking. Picked a spot that would easy to get out of and headed off down the wide easy path. The first bit is very wide and easy, though heading down, and about 0.7km to the picnic area. We sat at the picnic area to see if we could see any birds, but nope. Could hear loads, but could see nothing.

Now all the info about the trail said to go anti-clockwise, which goes down into the ravine. We went clockwise, along the nice wide path that goes along the other side of the ravine. The walk is nice, but under the trees with swirling mist. Not saying it was spooky or anthing but:

It occassionally opens out, but is mostly under trees. We could hear the pigeons/doves and they were possibly laurel pigeons, but we couldn’t see them well because they were way up in the canopy. So just dark pigeon shaped birds! The path back down into the ravine is much steeper, narrower, and generally more difficult with some muddy steps and clambering over roots and rocks. And the two hour walk took us about 3 hours because we stopped to try to see birds, take photos, and mostly because we’re old gits with bad joints. But it was a lovely walk. Most of the walk we were on our own, but toward the end it was getting busier and noisier and when we got back to the picnic area it was pretty full! The parking area was also full. So we timed that perfectly.

We then drove up to Chorros de Epina, a set of seven springs. Had to walk down to them and didn’t get any photos as there were a couple of people there filling bottles – large bottles! We did a try some and it was lovely and cold. There is a cafe at the top and we stopped for coffee while we planned our next route out. From the cafe we could look out and see La Palma.

We then drove down into Valle Gran Rey, one of the more spectacular ravines and one of the larger towns. It’s where most of the ocean based sightseeing tours are located. We found a parking space right next to the port and in front of a restaurant that looked nice. So we decided to have a large lunch and a bit of a rest. Definitely warmer on the coast – we had dressed for the forest with long sleeves and trousers and were actually a bit cold on the walk (well I was, Joe said it was comfortable cause he’s weird). But on the coast it was too warm for long sleeves! Still lunch was nice, even if we didn’t get the fish/seafood platter for two (Joe got tuna and I had steak with clams and prawns).

We then did a slow drive back to the hotel. It has to be slow drives because the roads all twist and turn up and down ravines. And down into Valle Gran Rey it goes narrow with pedestrian crossing every few meters. Once back at the hotel we put on short sleeve shirts and had a G&T at the pool bar. We were just finishing when the music for something was starting. So again, perfect timing!

So had breakfast, no champagne because at 10ish we collected our rental car. Joe had mapped out a looped route to the north of the island and through Garajonay National Park. Today was more a scouting mission just to see what it was like, both driving the roads and the areas we were interested in. We stopped at any mirador (viewpoints) so have tons of photos; we also drove through a couple of villages and one area that was tight corners and only a car width wide. Might not do that again! Also the route back had roadworks with one way traffic and lots of stopping, so that route is also off the list! We did a little walking but not much – saving that for tomorrow. Today once we got to the centre and up the mountains it was cold and rainy. Lots of cloud and very dark in the forest. But wonderful views when it cleared and we could see Tenerife.

We saw more kestrals – there do seem to be quite a lot of them! And possibly another larger raptor but couldn’t get a clear view. And we ended the day by parking by Playa Santiago and walking down to the Spar for provisions, then stopping at the cafe for cake and coffee. We’ve had so many large suppers that we’ll probably just leave it at that tonight!

Tomorrow will be the park most of the day and we may try San Sebastian on Saturday.

So we’re being so lazy I’m not sure what day of the week it is! Hooray for a relaxing holiday. After breakfast, when I learned Joe had neglected to mention they serve champagne*, we went down to the town (village?). Saw a large boat leaving the harbour and figured it was a whale watching tour, so we watched it going out. Noticed it had stopped and, through the binoculars, people were gathered on one side so I was watching to see if I could see what they were watching. I might have seen something surface, but not sure; however, what I definitely saw was porpoises or dolphins closer in to shore. So we watched this pod for a bit until it went around the headland and out of sight. Unfortunately a bit too far out to really ID what they were. Did a little shopping and pottering about, but mainly sitting and watching the sea. Tough holiday.

We went to the Gara Restaurant at the resort and had the tasting menu – this one was for La Palma and El Hierro and was lovely. There were some tastes we didn’t quite get and a bit too much banana foam, but I enjoyed it anyway. We should check to see when they do the La Gomera menu.

Next day (5 December) Joe made up for not telling me about the champagne by bringing me a glass. Nice way to start the day, champagne and coffee. Another lazy day, though we did sort out car hire for Thursday (we’ll have that for three days to see the island) and booked a whale watching tour for Monday morning. But other than that I sat and read – found a place where I could see the ocean and just read. Also saw lots of birds. The ocean was flat calm today, but cloudy weather and a bit dull. Joe went out and took photos and a very cold swim.

Next day (6 December) breakfast – again champagne and coffee and fruit. Then to the room and sorted a bag and our swimsuits and headed down to the saltwater pool. I started another book – really enjoying the opportunity to just sit and read! And I sat by the pool and read. Joe swam and said it was still really cold so I opted out (it looked so inviting though! But cold.) In the evening we headed out to the village to eat rather than stay at the resort and got a table at Restaurante Kuss. The food was fantastic – we had a prawn starter that was brilliant and even the bread roll was lovely. May have to go back and try some of the other stuff on the menu! Tomorrow we are off to investigate more of the island.

*Our breakfast technique, well our usual one when I’m not mucking up the coffee system, is to find a table. Joe goes off in search of breakfast while I wait for coffee, and he usually brings back juice for us before heading off again. I don’t usually go toward the juice because Joe has brought me a glass. And the champagne was kept at one end of the juice station, so I missed it. Until I saw someone bring two glasses to another table as we were getting up to leave. Joe just said ‘oh yeah, they have that.’

Yesterday got up had breakfast and then headed for the nifty cliff lift and the saltwater pool They lie when they say it’s heated. But we swam. Well, I eased in, squawked, then swam. Then lay in the sun for a bit, then swam again. That water is cold! We stayed there most of the morning and instead of a G&T by the pool we had a hot chocolate. Did I say the water was cold?

Then it was dinner at one of the restaurants – Tasco Fandango. We had a nice dinner, with a local Canary wine and Andalusian beer for Joe.

Today was even lazier. We went for a walk along the cliff to the next bay (Playa de Tapachuga). We saw a pair of kestrals – one was sitting on a post a ways off and the other flying about. Saw another raptor but too far to identify. In fact, wasn’t sure about the kestrals, but more on that later. We walked back along the road and glad we did because I have now seen hoopoes! Could hear them calling and then one just flew up and posed, then another one. Lovely birds. Also have seen green finches (maybe) and island canaries. Get to hear them singing outside the room all day. And then saw the same sort of raptor sitting on a post outside the parking area of the hotel so got a much better look and thought ‘yep kestral’. Then it flew off. And we followed. Straight to our room where it was sitting outside like ‘is this close enough then?’ and definitely close enough and definitely kestral. So that was nifty.

I sat and read for the rest of the day while Joe headed out to the main pool (I was still cold from yesterday). Joe said that pool was as cold. So a rather relaxing day for me while Joe froze!

People thought I was joking when I said I was coming here to sleep. But that’s what we’re doing. Sort of. Woke up really early this morning and heard dripping so went back to sleep. Woke up again at seven to hear the rain pouring down, so rolled over and pretended I was still asleep until around eight when Joe was up. We sort of pretended we were going back to sleep but gave up and got ready for the day.

It was still dripping when we went to breakfast, we are now trying to remember if it was heavy rain or just rain, but definitely wet. And lots of puddles. Went in for breakfast and I managed to muck it all up by heading straight for the coffee and getting my own pot – you’re suppose to sit down and let them bring it to you. But once I had my pot of coffee I was not letting go. And it was good coffee, so. Joe got us crepes because it was the one area that didn’t have hoards of people around – it was completely empty. Good crepes. And by the time we finished breakfast the rain had stopped and the sun was coming out.

So we sorted our stuff and headed out to see where things are and have a bit of a walk. Our friends have stayed here before (and recommended we stay here) and said we had to do the nifty cliff lift! And when we checked in we were told about the cliff lift down to the beach. So off we headed to find the nifty cliff lift. Walked down along the sea cliff with wonderful views over the ocean and found the cliff lift, got in and, after all the build up, were disappointed to see it was just a lift. No glass walls or anything. But when the doors opened at the bottom we were in a cave tunnel leading out onto the beach area. (We need to take a photo!)

Now when I say beach, I don’t mean the sort of the beach I’m used to. These are huge rock beaches, the sort that you really dont’ walk along wading in the surf. Just very large rocks with waves. Lovely, but stick to the paths! We checked out the saltwater swimming pool (tomorrow’s adventure) and walked toward town. At the end of the path was a shallow pond from all the rain – I think it’s normally a parking lot but this morning it was a pond. So we waded across (it wasn’t even ankle deep) and headed on into town.

Town is mostly a strip along the beach with a couple of roads going back between one of the hills. Lots of little shops, bars, and restaurants. We browsed some shops and walked along the front. Walked out along the breakwater, just generally wandered about. We did do some grocery shopping – mostly looking at things but picked up some cheese and crackers for a snack. We also stopped by a little art gallery which is on the beach back toward our hotel and which has lovely work. Then back up the cliff lift.

Stopped and had some water and cool down, then headed off the opposite direction toward the next bay. The hotel has a walkway along the cliff to the next bay along which is really nice. It has a couple of viewing areas along the walk and is quite a nice walk. We didn’t go as far as the beach at that bay, just the overlook above it. Watched the seagulls and waves and sauntered back. Then it was the pool bar and G&Ts out of the sun.

Rested in the room for a couple of hours reading and relaxing, then headed out for photos of the sunset before supper. Well, I was going to put in some photos, but they keep getting put in upside down! So let’s see . . .

When we left home the weather forecast was for colder weather with possible frost and that four letter word (snow). So we’ve headed south. Flying out of Gatwick (and I did try to get us an overland route but the one I wanted was our full holiday budget for the next year or two) so we went the day before and stayed at the airport (Premier Inn which is right at North Terminal and serves an excellent gammon steak – good enough that the woman next to us told Joe he’d made a good choice and Joe had to agree). Very early morning flight to Tenerife and of course the people sitting behind us had nasty colds and coughed/sneezed/blew noses the whole flight. Here’s hoping our masks did something because they sure weren’t wearing any! You’d think the pandemic would have taught us something.

Met at the airport by our taxi and off to the hotel. We were actually dropped off a block from the hotel so had a nice walk up. Sunshine and warm! Dropped off our bags and went for a walk along the beach at Los Cristianos, stopping off at one of the bars for a Sangria Cava and watching the people/beach. Dithered about food until everything was closed, so had a drink and some crisps until places opened back up again. We had spotted a nice menu and the place was very close to the hotel so we went to Taberna Cantabra and had a really good tapas meal. Joe had beer and I had more sangria.

Up a little later this morning to get the ferry. We stayed a reasonable walk to the ferry port, even with our rucksacks! Got to the port and even checked into the hotel, then grabbed a coffee while we waited for the ferry. Managed to get our favourite right at the front seats on the ferry and over to La Gomera – takes just under an hour. I had booked another ferry to Playa Santiago, which is where we’re staying, but our ferry was a little late coming in. We asked and as it’s the same line they actually held the ferry for us – even though we were few minutes late due to running around trying to figure out where to go. Joe had pointed it out but there was also a big red sign saying hazard. But you should ignore that apparently and stick to the blue line. Phew. The weather got a bit rough on that ride but it was nice to see the coast.

Got to Playa Santiago and walked along the front to a ice cream shop. Had to stop for ice cream. Joe thought we’d walk to the hotel while I was saying ‘it’s on a cliff, let’s get a taxi to get rid of the bags’. Joe won the first round and we started climbing. Then discovered the ‘shortcut’ he thought he found wasn’t and deadended several times. The postwoman found us and directed us where to go which was the road with no pedestrian pavement and tight corners and steep. She said phone a taxi and even took Joe’s phone and called for us! So I got the second round. The taxi got us here safe and sound. Dropped off the bags and had a walk around to see the pools/gardens/restaurants while waiting for our room. Just as the room was ready it started to rain – so we’ve been relaxing in the room listening to the rain.

We’re back and it’s dark and cold. Very dark. Very cold.

Last day in Sydney was mainly running around getting last minute things and sending post. We had planned to go to the Fish Market for lunch, but Joe’s ankle was bad (we did a lot of walking over the past few days) so he didn’t think he could get that far. So we ate at Mary’s – chicken and burgers.

Then back to the airport way too early. Gave us time to rearrange some packing and change clothes in an attempt to feel a bit more together. First leg of the flight was around 14 hours, then 3 hours in Doha (why we weren’t on the earlier London flight, I don’t know!), and then another nearly 7 hours to London. But I’d organised a taxi to meet us – it was really nice to come out and have someone there to take over the bags and get us home! And our bags came out quickly so we were on the way very soon after we’d landed. Hooray!

But yeah, Britain is cold and dark. And rainy. While we were circling it was lovely clear skies, so clear we could see Walthamstow Town Hall below us. By the time we’d landed and got out of the airport, it had clouded over and was grey and dreary. By the time we got near home, the skies had opened and it was pouring rain. Welcome home.

We decided to drive to Sydney via the last bit of the Coast Road that we could safely do. So we checked out of the hotel in Wollongong and made our way to the Grand Pacific Drive. Leaving Wollongong behind we had to make to sharp right turns into various little lookouts to see the cliffs and the sea, but couldn’t see the Sea Cliff Bridge until we were on it! And even then it was only a few spots that you could see it was a bridge (K: I dunno, I was driving and pretty sure I was on a bridge.)

We stopped at the suggested parking after we’d been over the bridge and started down the path to have a view. But we came into a neat little gully where we saw a water dragon (K: no really, that’s what they’re called!) We also saw dragonflies and eels. (K: little tiny eels.) But we didn’t go any further because our legs complained. (K: and we wouldn’t get a view of the bridge, it was a path to lead us onto the bridge.)

We stopped at a few more spots until we eventually came to Bald Hill Lookout, where you can get a really nice view of the bridge. (K: we promise to upload and label photos soon. Probably this weekend at home. Probably.) We then used the toilets and both came out giggling because it was all automated, with a voice that explained how things worked, that you had 10 minutes (K; leading one to worry that maybe one takes longer than 10 minutes? Surely not?), and then calm lift music plays. Everything was operated by a push-button, even the toilet paper. The toilet also flushes when you wash your hands and when you open the door. It was all rather surreal. Joe said it was a cross between Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy and Doctor Who.

We drove on into the Royal National Park which was very pretty to drive through (K: twisty little roads that climbed steeply up and then dropped down meant I was driving slowly and paying attention to the road. But Joe is right, it is pretty!) We stopped just before we left the park by a piece of water and watched a cockatoo. Then we drove through the Sydney Suburbs to Botany Bay to see where it all started.

We stopped at the Kamay Botany Bay National Park Visitors Centre and had a quick look at their eight days that changed Australia display before walking down to the shoreline and past various monuments to events that happened, including the landing place of Cook.

After this we put our exit plan into operation, which involved stashing bags at the airport and returning the hire car. We then retired to our very nice suite for our last night in Sydney (K: and Australia. Don’t wanna go.)

The weather was cloudy and meant to be raining so we decided to do indoor stuff. The idea was to do some final shopping and go to the Science Space. We walked to the town shopping centre and had a look around at a few things and then planned the walk out to the Science Space.

The weather was nicer than we expected (still very dull and cloudy, but today we could see the mountains!) so on the way out we came across a detour into a small annex of the Botanical Gardens so we decided to take it. It had a short boardwalk over a saltwater creek and mangroves before paralleling the beach for just over a kilometre. Managed to spot a few birds and quite a few lizards scurrying about. From there we popped onto the beach for a few metres before turning back inland and back to the Science Space which was located in Wollongong University’s Innovation Park.

We didn’t do much in the Science Space as it was targetted at the much younger age range (K: I think they have stuff on for the school holidays so it’s aimed for those during the summer.) We then took the free loop bus back into town and the harbour. (K: Yep they have free buses!) We stopped for a nice three course lunch overlooking the harbour (K: sat right at the window).

After lunch we carried on back to the hotel where we tried to get everything into our bags in preparation for heading back to Sydney tomorrow and our last days in Australia.