The Purple Penguin

Yea, found an place to post that’s about a quarter of the cost of the hotel internet access.

Top travel tip for China: if you go through Beijing don’t admit it or you won’t get a hotel anywhere. Joe finally told the Ramada in Nanjing that we’d just flown in from Ulan Bator, so we spent the couple of days there sneaking in and out so we wouldn’t have to give a flight number! We got our train in UB and I must say that Deluxe First Class is not as good as First class on the Trans-Siberian – also felt much more insecure. The Chinese method of finding their compartment is to just walk down the train opening doors at random. If they see something interesting – like a couple of brits having a cup of tea – they just stop in the door and stare. So we had to keep our door closed and locked; however, that didn’t completely help as at one point someone *unlocked* the door, had a look, then closed and locked it again! On that train the little British Gas Metre key we’d brought came in very handy as did the straps – we locked everything and wrapped the straps around the door to keep the nosey Chinese out. However the last bit of the train journey is pretty spectacular as you go up into the mountains and along the Great Wall. We even stopped at a station that had wonderful views of the Wall and everyone got out to get photos. It was interesting as there were very few tourists on the wall, if any. The car parks were nearly empty.

Don’t know if Beijing (where we haven’t been, honest guv) was empty or not as we have nothing to compare it to. But we hurried to Tiananmen Square and got a few photos before our train left for Nanjing. We spent very little time in Beijing (and according to Joe we weren’t there at all). The train to Nanjing was nice. We travelled soft class which is pretty nice even if it is four bunk. I got a bit worried when we were put in with a Chinese bloke who got out his beer and cucumbers, cranked the music up, and started loudly munching on his cucumbers – all I could think of was a kappa! But Joe got to talking to him and he was quite nice. He even rang his mate who spoke English to help us fill in one of the numerous health forms we had to complete – his English was very basic. Turns out he works for China Nuclear Industry in the Construction. From what we could make out he’s an engineer building Nuclear Power stations! oops. Joe broke protocol and didn’t offer one of his business cards as we were getting on with him. We got several health checks there as well and a bit worried as they kept taking my temperature: come in and take it (with a nifty little thingy that they aim at your forehead), have a bit of a chat, go away for a chat, come back and take it again. Finally they came in specifically to say that I was ok. Gosh.

Nanjing was pretty, though loads of building work going on. All cheap accommodation, i.e. dorm type, in China is closed so we’ve had to bust our budget a bit on hotels. However, we have found places to stay which is a bonus. Even if Joe has told porkies to get the rooms. We saw the bell and drum tower in Nanjing, had some good meals, drank tea, and did loads of walking. Oh yes, if you order a four fruit frappe in Nanjing you get a huge plate of ice covered in, yep, four fruits (I think they were prunes, apple, watermelon and loads of red beans) with a drizzle of vanilla. We also went to the top of Purple Mountain! Made a few mistakes however. We went to the park and walked along the Ming Walls which were impressive and the park was quite nice. Loads of people out exercising, playing, walking, riding bikes, generally out having a good time. Then we made our first mistake and went into the wrong park which was simply a sculpture garden. Took ages to find our way back out again as there was construction going on. Finally got out and found our way to the cable car for the mountain where we made our second mistake and bought a ticket for only one way, deciding to walk back down. Cable car is a bit posh as it gives the idea of a nice little car to sit in; this was actually a chair lift with only a little bar. Quite a long ride up, about half an hour, and we were about the only people on the thing! We passed only about 2 other groups going down. It was lovely going up as the mountain is covered in forest and we were riding along at about tree top level looking down at the path below us. However, the really good views were going the other way. Made it to the top and walked around looking at the view, then headed down past loads of little statues and grottos and scary dark caves with models in them. And here’s the other mistake – the path is not at all well signposted (even the Chinese were getting lost) so we did some scrambling around on the mountain trying to find our way down! By the time we got to the bottom we were too knackered to do anything else so I missed seeing the Ming Tomb.

Then we got the train to Shanghai – hard seat this time which was actually nicer than British rail standard. Three and half hours later we were in Shanghai. I’d booked a hotel before we left Nanjing and what a hotel! First however, we had to go through the health checks, many forms and had our temperature taken. Also had to show our tickets from Nanjing, but he seemed willing to believe that we’d arrived in Nanjing from Ulan Bator and we didn’t have to mention the train at all. We’re also not allowed to have a key to our room, so every time we go into the hotel we have to report to our floor attendant and fill out an ‘egression report’ and have a health check. The hotel we are in is the former Astor House and the lobby is still quite impressive. The lift has an operator, no buttons just a lever, and the lobby on our floor looks pretty normal. But once we’re past the floor attendant’s station it gets very impressive: the whole thing opens out to a medievel banquet hall. It sours up to the glass roof, with a gallery running around at the next level. Down the centre of this is benches with ‘gas lamps’ beside them, and the brass room signs are on hooks outside the door. Apparently ‘Albort Einstein’ stayed in a room a couple of doors down from us. The room is also impressive – huge – we have a entrance lobby, with walk-in closet, huge main room and, not quite my marble bathroom with huge marble tub, but pretty close!

The first day in Shanghai we got our ferry tickets, so we are ready for Japan. We have even seen our ferry in port here and it should be a comfortable journey. We done a lot of walking – up and down the Bund as our hotel is at one end, just over the bridge. Any time we go into any building we get our temperature taken. We’ve even been on the Bund Tourist Tunnel which is definitely an interesting experience. A very interesting experience. People’s Square was fun and the Shanghai Museum is lovely. The Square seems to be where everyone hangs out – they were skating, flying kites, blowing bubbles and just generally hanging. We sat and watched and then walked along getting stuff on sticks. So Joe has had his meat on a stick. And I got a dumpling. We’ve also been down to the Yu Yuan Gardens though we didn’t go into the gardens themselves, just the shopping area around them. Had more dumplings, but a different sort, for breakfast – they were freshly cooked as well. You could stand there and watch the people making the dumplings – there was quite a queue and for good reason as the dumplings were very good. We also headed out one night to try the ‘food street’ near our hotel – wild. The neon was so bright you needed shades, there were fish tanks every where, and people keep approaching you to come in and say ‘English Menu’. The resturant we finally chose said ‘English Menu’ but it wasn’t really. Anyone know what ‘Four flowers on a mountain’ is? Or how about ‘Four happy vegetables’? Those are just the two I can remember, there were loads of others.

I’m shopped out so glad that we’re sailing tomorrow morning. Up early and to the port which is only about 15 minutes from our hotel, which is why I chose it, but boy I’m glad I did. I would certainly recommend going there if just to see the place! So another update when we finally get to Japan.