The Purple Penguin

So, remember in the last post I said we’d probably not see any more northern lights. Yeah. Remember that.

So after crossing the arctic circle the ship offered special stamps – the first we knew of this was the announcement tone and then Postman Pat theme song playing. In Norwegian. Joe and I just stared at each other, then I said ‘is that . . . ?’ and Joe nodded. Very surreal. Then they announced the special stamp. Oh, right. Ok then.

So we bundle up to go to the Viking feast which is held at the Lofoten Viking Museum. We all piled onto the bus and waved goodbye to the ship – it sailed on and we met it at a later docking. The bus ride there was about half an hour and we had a tour guide talking about the history and what to expect at the feast – he a bit of an unusual name for a Viking: Christian! The reconstruction of the long house is excellent and we were met at the door with a woman carrying a torch, the house itself was lit with oil lights and candles. They did a reconstruction of a mid-winter ceremony, Jul Blót, to bring back the sun and then we ate. We had a very good mead, not too sweet, and a huge plate of lamb, carrots, swede (rutabaga), barley porridge (lovely flavours), a soured cream type thing, berry compote, and bread (it was a yeast bread but cooked like a shortbread and served cut in pie shapes). It was all good. Then we got to look around the museum before heading back to the ship and getting more information about the area and Vikings from our guide.

On the way out to the Viking feast and the way back it was pouring with snow and sleet. Horrible weather. So we get on the boat and Joe says that his app is showing a good chance of the northern lights. I laughed. But we decided to stand on the deck anyway as we left port we saw the stocks for drying the fish. And right when Joe’s app had said, we saw the best showing of the lights we’ve seen. They were all over the sky and could be seen from all over the ship. They were selling a mug of Trollfjord knert (warm drink – sort of an alcoholic tea!) so we went and got one then watched more northern lights from the stern – leading off with a red/yellow and moving across the sky forming a green bridge. I could see why some ancients said they were the spirit bridge. It was lovely. We then headed to the bow to see the entrance of the Trollfjord which is only 100m wide. It’s pretty impressive even when all you can really see is lit with the ship’s spotlights! During the winter the ships are only allowed to go to the entrance. Then as we moved away from the fjord the northern lights lit up the sky again. So we stood and watched those until around 1am when the clouds moved back in.

So I slept in this morning. Or tried to. Lots of announcements, when we stopped at Harstad and when we left (I got up at 8am to see the medieval church from the ship as we went past), then to announce that there was a presentation, then sales in the shop, and so I finally gave up and got up. While I was trying to sleep, Joe was playing with his app. Which sounds more interesting than it is. Went out on the snowy deck to see cloud and snow, turned around and went back in. Pretty much like that all day to Tromsø (though we did head out to see the tidal current, not that we saw much!) Once in Tromsø we bundled into lots of clothing and headed out for the bus for the silent whale watching tour. It’s on a wooden sailing vessel with electric engines so is almost completely silent. We were given oversuits to wear so I took off my outer layer (I had several layers on) to get into the oversuit. We were also getting a short version of the tour, only about an hour. So we’re all struggling into our oversuits and as we were leaving the dock and getting the safety briefing an ocra passed by the boat. So much for safety briefing! The guide said ‘quickest whale spotting on our tour!’ Then we got hit by a squall, ice squall. It was pretty horrible – in fact we also got from the guide ‘worst whale watching weather ever’. yay. But it did blow over and we saw lots of orca, even in the dark! I saw the blow of humpback and Joe got to see the fluke as it dived. So it was good. And overhead? The northern lights. The silent ship is wonderful, you can hear the whales blow, so were hearing them all around the ship at one point. Then headed back to the dock and into another ice squall. And the entire bus ride back to the boat it was snowing heavily.

So now getting dry and waiting to go to dinner. There is a tree decorating this evening and tomorrow we celebrate with a large Norwegian Christmas dinner – after we go up to North Cape! Christmas eve is the main celebration for Christmas in Norway.

So to bed without seeing any other lights. A bit after 7am we got an announcement that we were about to cross the Arctic Circle and the globe marking it would be on starboard. So up and into clothes and out on deck in darkness. There was snow on deck, only a small amount mainly piled by the walls. But still. And we waited watching the rain, until the bridge put out a spotlight and spotlit the globe marking the circle. As the bridge crossed we got a blast of the horn. So in the arctic.

We’ve had lightning, rain, sleet, and snow since crossing the circle. So no lights and probably none the rest of the trip north as it looks like bad weather all the way up! We’ve not got off the ship today – currently sitting in Bodø watching the snow and sleet. So glad we didn’t opt for the nature walk today!  Especially as it’s quite dark. Tonight we’re off for a Viking feast! But until then just updating the photos on Flickr and generally resting.

So the meals are very nice onboard. Though we are the last seating for dinner and also the last to be served! Still, it was worth it. After dinner, there was a talk in one of the bars, which we missed most of, but did get to try the canape served. Still not absolutely sure what it was other than tasty. May have been air dried lamb.

Then to bed as we had to be up early for our Trondheim tour. Just getting off to sleep and an announcement started – Joe said I was up and out before he’d fully got out of bed – it was a northern lights announcement! Not the spectacular ones you see all the photos of; in fact, a lot of people thought it was just clouds. But they were bright and moved and occasionally turned green/yellow (but were mostly white). So we were out on deck until sometime after midnight watching the light move over the sky. Came back in  a bit cold and finally fell asleep just to have the alarm go off – felt like I’d only just got to sleep!

Up and early breakfast and on a tour bus for 7:50. Bus left at 8 and drove through a dark Trondheim. Sunrise this morning was 10:01 and our tour ended at 10:00. So peered out the window at wooden houses as the bus wound it’s way up a steep rise to a lookout point over the city. We were told that we were lucky to get up there, as a day or so ago there was too much ice for the bus to get to the point. So we had a lovely view and the guide pointed out the sites of interest. Nice with the city lit up and Christmas lights on. Then we drove around the university and through the ‘mansion’ area – all the large beautiful houses. The guide said we could look at the Christmas decorations, but as we left the area she said she was very disappointed in their decorating – there was actually very little up!

We ended the tour at Nidaros Cathedral where we had a guided tour and then a chance to walk around. Joe and I elected to walk back to the ship, so had a wander around the Archbishops palace (but didn’t go in), and then through town along the river. Pretty city. Back on board and Joe was still taking photos as we were leaving. As the ship left port we got fed mussels from the area as we went past Munkholmen. Joe took loads of photos of the island (as did everyone!)

The rest of the day, we pretty much stayed on deck, though we had a brief talk in the afternoon about the northern lights and we also changed/added some activities. Then back to the room to rest before dinner and at about 6pm got another announcement. Joe had been checking the app he’d downloaded, so we were getting ready to go on deck anyway – again I was quick off the mark! These were much brighter than last night/early morning and stretched across the sky. But still mainly white. Hoping to see some more colours before we head back home!

While at dinner we docked at Rørvik, so finished eating and went out on deck for a look at the town. It was raining horizontally, so I didn’t stay out long, but Joe stayed to try to get photos (he’s weird like that). Now back underway and waiting to see if we’ll see more lights!

So the talk last night was to introduce the senior officers and to go over the excursion for today. Then we headed up to the top deck to have champagne and watch Bergen disappear off the stern. So we’ve now had champagne on board a ship in the sub-Antarctic and sub-Arctic. But we’ll actually be going into the Arctic this time. Then to sleep.

Up earlyish, sort of, finally roused ourselves and to breakfast as we hit ‘open water’ – I put that in quotes because we never really leave the shore! But it was rougher and at one point things went flying in the dining room. We hit quieter waters by just before our early lunch (11.30!) I’ll have to put a schedule at some point – we had a few stops last night and this morning before reaching Ålesund, which was our first excursion. But we spent time on deck looking at the villages and one stop (Tuvik?). The title comes from the fact that going past a lighthouse (Joe has photos) I thought it was bouy sized – about as tall as me – as it was just a concrete looking structure with a light, but as we went around it, it became clear it was a decent sized two storey house. Everything looks small from the ship, with the tall mountains around!

We had a walking tour of Ålesund, our excursion for the day, looking at the Art Nouveau and got a quick tour of the museum. The city was, like most Norwegian places, all wood, but in 1904 it burned down – completely. About 5 buildings survived. So they set out to rebuild, but said no wood. It’s the only Norwegian town/city with almost no wooden buildings (we only saw a couple!) And it was build to modern design, which is why it’s all Art Nouveau. Reminded us of Napier in New Zealand – only nouveau not deco! The excursion was about 2 hours then we were back onboard and off about half an hour later.

We had another talk – this one about the excursions and we’re now trying to decide if we’re adding one and changing one. Probably change to whale watching, but will we be able to see anything in the dark? Then Joe took a few photos from deck as it was getting dark and we now wait for dinner.

So up earlier and had breakfast at the hotel before heading back to the room to pack. Breakfast was quite nice – lots of different things. Once packed we checked out and made reservations for dinner for new year’s eve. So at least we’ll get fed. Left the bags at the hotel and headed off to the aquarium (that site is in Norwegian!).

The aquarium was nice though a bit small. One of those older aquariums without the huge areas for the creatures. So the penguins, sea lions, harbor seals, and marmosets are all in small enclosures. But we saw the penguins get fed and spent a good 3 hours wandering around looking at what is in the waters around Norway – much like what we would see diving in the UK! Then we walked back into town, around the shops, and got a light lunch. As it was dry today (will wonders never cease) we did a lot of walking – coming back from the aquarium we walked along the ridge between two of the harbours (I would not live on those streets – they are a straight drop down to the water and in ice or snow would be a death trap! Not sure if Joe got photos – maybe when we get back.) We also walked around Bryggen again and Joe got more photos (as it wasn’t pouring it down with rain!)

Back to the hotel to get bags and walked to the ferry terminal, checked in, saw the safety video, and got on board. Luckily they put your bags in your room as we had a bit over an hour before we could go to the room. So we wandered around the ship seeing where everything is. Nice ship. I found the big comfortable chairs in the top deck lounge in the bow and settled in while Joe went and got photos. Dinner was buffet with a wide selection of Norwegian dishes. We have a intro talk at 9ish and departure champagne on the deck at 10 and we’re off at 10:30. First tour tomorrow morning at 11:45!

We should also have internet access – that was one of the first things Joe checked out and sorted. Of course.

So that was the phrase on a window in our hotel. Or how to stay wet on holiday. We slept quite late today – sort of hard to know when to get up when the sun isn’t up until around 10am! And goes down around 2:30pm. Ugh. But we finally got up and got dressed and headed out – into that foggy nasty drizzly rain that soaks through you. We walked around the harbour and down to the old castle/fort – Bergenhus fortress. Only one battle fought there – they defeated the English fleet that came in to attack the Dutch ships sheltering here. Only the king of Norway had given permission to the English to take the Dutch ships and share the bounty. Only Bergen hadn’t got the message. Joe and I laughed.

We also walked around the park a bit, getting more and more wet. We finally decided against climbing up to the higher section and instead headed off to find somewhere drier with food and coffee. Walked around Bryggen through the little alley ways and finally found a pub serving coffee and food. Of course the bartenders were Australian. I think it’s a law that Aussies have to travel and be bartenders. Very nice and Joe had an excellent fish soup. Fortified with soup and coffee we headed back out in the damp and did a circle around the central part of Bergen. So saw some of the churches, the old leper hospital, around to the park and lake where the art museums are (though didn’t go into the museums), then into the shopping district. When the rain started falling even heavier we headed back to the hotel.

Got dry in the hotel and sat in the bar drinking coffee while Joe uploaded his photos. We then headed out to see if we could get reservations for new year’s eve at one of the restaurants in Bryggen. We ended up with reservations for the 30th! Then had really good Spanish tapas for dinner.

Up earlier tomorrow to go to the aquarium! Also have to pack as we’re off to the ship  tomorrow afternoon. Dinner on board then we’re off to the arctic circle. Checked sunrise and sunset times for our journey and a good bit of it just says ‘none’. <sigh> But a good chance of seeing the northern lights later this week. Not sure what sort of internet access we’ll have then.

So, we’ve had a week of getting ready – warm clothes, seeing people, generally getting stuff done. Then we headed off to stay at Gatwick as our flight was early. As it was we had to get up by 6am to get all checked in and bags dropped off. So we weren’t sure about the alarm in the hotel room and I asked Joe to set his phone. He didn’t say he’d also set his watch. So at 6am all three alarms went off. We woke up.

And our flight was late. Due to fog. And no one said ‘sorry for the f in fog’. We finally took off around an hour late and once we went above the fog it was a lovely day – bright sunshine. Not a bad flight. We descended back down into cloud and rain. Bergen is wet. The drive from the airport to the hotel was mostly through tunnels, which was interesting though not much to look at! At the hotel too early to check in so we headed out in search of lunch and tourist info. Then back to check in and nap because it was dark. Very dark. And we aren’t even at the arctic circle yet!

When it stopped raining we headed back out and scoped out the ferry terminal and had a good walk around. Picked up a couple of things at a grocery store and got change – they have holes in the middle! Most of the places to eat were full tonight – lots of parties! But we found an Indian restaurant and had way too much food. Tomorrow will be wandering around Bergen with Joe playing with his camera!

Should now be uploaded, though some of the titles may be changed as we realise we’ve put the wrong thing on!

So up yesterday and off to the station. Had breakfast at the station, found our platform, and settled in to wait for the train. Which didn’t come. Due to a ‘technical fault’ it was running half an hour late. So panic, because that meant we’d miss our connection at Köln, which meant we’d miss our Eurostar train and be stuck. So not so much panic, cause stuck in Europe could be fun.

DB assured us that the conductor would call ahead and hold our train to Brussels – oh the joys of a joined up transport system run by the state! So we had a pleasant journey through Germany looking at church steeples and domes and sometimes church steeple domes. Then a frantic dash for the train door at Köln – and found out they’d brought our train in to the same platform the Brussels train was on so it was just a mad dash up the platform and onto the train. Of course our seats were all the way at the other end of the train!

So find our seats, sit down, and wait. And an announcement – due to a technical fault the train would be delayed. ARG!!! But it turns out we only left 10 minutes late and by the time we’d got to Brussels we were on time. So a stroll to the Eurostar terminal, through immigration , and into the waiting area. They are doing work on the Eurostar terminal in Brussels, so it was a bit of a warren – we were wondering if there would be an area to eat or if everything was closed. But nope, once you wind your way through everything is there and the first thing I saw was the Pierre Marcolini shop. So I have proper chocolate. (Joe says he started to say ‘I’ll get a seat and watch the bags’ but I was gone, had scooted into the chocolate shop.) We also got something to eat – actually I had to get into that queue and get us food cause Joe said the chocolate wasn’t enough and he wanted a beer. Then onto the train and on our way home. Through the dark clouds and rain. Ugh. Got out in London and it was cold and dark and damp. So back home.