The Purple Penguin

So stayed at Gatwick airport last night, up early to head into the terminal and to our WestJet flight to Vancouver. I booked the holiday ages ago, but only just realised that tomorrow Canada celebrates it’s 150th birthday. So this should be interesting . . . 

Had breakfast at Jamie’s Italian, which was very nice. A short stroll around the terminal, then to the gate. We were actually flying posh class this time –  WestJet doesn’t have business or first, just plus, which has larger seats. We figured a 10 hour flight needed more comfort, so splashed out. So boarding and we get to go on the first round, board the flight and get handed a small Canada flag pin, round the corner and each seat has a paper Canadian flag or 150 Years multi coloured maple leaf flag on the seat back. Ok. Get seated and get handed a sparkling wine and OJ. Ok. Everyone gets on and settled and the announcements start – the first announcement was about Canada day and celebrating 150 years so the government had them hand out the pins and flags. Then a rousing patriotic speech about Canada. Ok. We were also told to ask for whatever we wanted – so I asked them to make the flight shorter please. The flight was long, but we got to see Greenland. And then Canada which looked a bit like Greenland. Lots of snow, glaciers, and icebergs in strikingly blue water.

As we neared Vancouver, watching the Rockies out the window, we get the announcement about the couple who are returning to Canada after living in the UK for over 30 years and how wonder it was they were returning on the 150th birthday. Ok. Then one of the flight attendants sang ‘Oh Canada’ and we were all to wave our flags and say ‘happy birthday Canada’. Ok. But we’d already packed our flags, so. It was an interesting flight. And it was actually early! So they do actually get what you want!

The Vancouver airport is impressive – with a waterfall in the immigration hall. It was eerily quiet in the first corridors and it wasn’t until we got to immigration that we saw any other people – then there suddenly hundreds! Immigration was mostly painless and bags arrived fairly quickly. A bit of a wait for the airport shuttle but here we are. Tired but looking forward to celebrating Canada’s birthday tomorrow.

So after arriving in Bergen we had a very nice dinner at Bryggeloftet & Stuene in Bryggen – very good food. We were sat in the window so had a good view out to watch the harbour and had a lovely meal.

The last day of 2016 we walked about in the rain. Joe wanted to do some shopping so we had a look around, but didn’t really do much. Back to the room to dress for dinner. We had made a reservation for dinner at the hotel before we left on the cruise, so headed down for a drink before dinner, then prosciutto at 7pm, then into dinner around 7:30. Four courses and it took until about 11:30, so a slow pace. It was really nice and the food was excellent. We then went out on the restaurant balcony over the harbour and watched the fireworks all over Bergen. They were going off on the hill on the other side – up past Bryggen – but the main display was just down the harbour from us and we had an excellent view. Then there was a display up on Mount Fløyen, then more down the harbour. We had a good half hour of really nice fireworks to see in 2017. Then to bed.

Today was lovely and sunny. We got up and had breakfast (a small breakfast as still full from dinner!) then went to the funicular railway to go up to the top of Mount Fløyen. There was snow and ice at the top, which you couldn’t see from the bottom! Joe got several shots of the town from the overlook and we had a good walk around. I saw a red squirrel! Then we walked back down taking our time and seeing everything. Sun going down now but we’ll probably have a quiet night in. Museums tomorrow!

No, it’s actually dry! Cloudy and we had rain all the way down to Bergen (with small gaps that allowed Joe to get more photos). Finished packing this morning and took the bags out for collection on our way to breakfast. After breakfast, back to the cabin to check it over to make sure didn’t forget anything, grab our small bags and up to deck 7 to sit at the bow and watch the rain. And bounce. It was a bit rough. Top tip for travelling by ship: if you’re susceptible to seasickness or don’t know if you are, do NOT go to the highest part of the ship closest to the bow. If you have small children do NOT go to the highest part of the ship closest to the bow. The best place is as low as you can get, usually as low with windows (on Hurtigruten that was deck 4) and in the centre (on Hurtigruten the very handy lobby with seats!) So yeah, one man, two very small, very unhappy children and a whole group of adults fed up with him.

We got into Bergen about half an hour late, the winds were really slowing us down. But it cleared enough and there was enough light (YAY!) to actually see the scenery. And pretty sure I saw a sea eagle. YAY! So a nice day cruising south, with lunch. Then off the ship, onto the bus and off to the hotel. The bus took just as long as walking did. But got in quickly and got checked in and have a wonderful room with a view out over Bryggen!

Last full day onboard. Last night we had a stretch of ‘open water’, combined with strong wind and rain so a bouncy couple of hours. So not really enough sleep – but then with it being dark all the time, not enough sleep anyway!

Up early for Trondheim – quick breakfast, though not quite munching toast as hopping down the gangplank pulling on boots! We only had 9 people, plus the guide, on our tour in the pouring rain. I worried that it would be too similar to the bus tour we did on the way north, but it was a good compliment to the bus tour. We saw more of the old town, didn’t go into the cathedral, and walked on the other side of the river from the walk we did the first time. So very nice tour though we did get back to the boat sopping wet. Our stuff is still hung in the bathroom to dry.

The rest of the day was spent up in the deck 7 bar in the seats at the bow watching the rain. Read a bit, but mainly just watched rain. Last dinner onboard and now packing. We have wussed and got the bus transfer to the hotel as the weather will be wet in Bergen!

Today was a cruising day –  no long stops and no excursions. We still got up rather early and had breakfast, then headed out to the bow to see the globe marking the arctic circle. Stepped out on deck to be hit by a wall of wind but managed to creep to the front then around the front and got blown to starboard! Managed to stay onboard – just. Braved the wind and rain to see the globe then headed up to deck 7 to see what the ceremony was only to find out we’d missed it. Apparently it was a really nice cod shaped spoon with ‘Arctic Circle Hurtigruten’ written on it. But you had to swallow a spoonful of cod liver oil to get it.

We have spent the day pretty much watching the horrible weather from the window as it’s not let up all day. Rain, sleet, hail, and strong wind. Joe got out at Brønnøysund for a walk about but said there wasn’t much there. He wandered up the street and back again in a gap in the rain. We sat in the bakery and had hot chocolate and I listened in on conversations. We sat in the bar and had drinks and watched the rain. Just that sort of day.

Dinner was one seating and we got handed a glass of sparkling wine when we went in and had to walk past the senior crew and staff to our tables – it was our farewell dinner. So a toast to everyone and a song from the crew with a very good meal.

We’re up very early tomorrow for a wet (the weather report says heavy rain all day – again) walk around Trondheim.

So dinner tonight was early – 17:30 – and we were due on the walking tour of the fishing village at 18:40. So we were a bit stressed as dinner stretched out. We’re sitting in a group of eight, us and three other couples (well, two couples and a pair of women who are travelling together). Two of us were going on the tour and the other two tables were not. We were suppose to be getting our food quickly so we could make the tour, so the two tables were eating while the others were making comments about being hungry. Then one of the people not going said ‘well, I’m going to enjoy my dinner nice and slow. And take my time over pudding’. Ha! We docked at Svolvær while we were having dinner.

After quickly eating, frantic back to the room to put on outwear and dash back down to deck 3 (we’re on deck 5) to disembark and find the minibus. We all made it and headed out, just over the bridge. Our guide pointed out the mayor’s house and then talked about the growth of Svolvær as a fishing town. We got a lot of information in our tour. Got to see the drying racks up close, the inside of an old fishing hut (kept as it was as a museum), Joe tried dried stock fish, and we saw the old shop which is now a reception area for renting out the fishing huts which have been done up as holiday lets. We also were in the art gallery for the grandson of the man who founded the fishing industry – Gunnar Berg. The family have build the gallery and it holds about 15% of his work (if I’m remembering correctly!) Lots of interesting information about the town and people and lots of stories. The tour was well worth it.

It’s been interesting, as we’re out of season we’re pretty much getting private tours. This tour, the guide was unlocking the museum buildings and turning on the lights just for us. With the lack of sunlight here, I’ve completely lost any sense of time; so I keep feeling like we’re being allowed to tour late at night! But it’s been really nice.

We actually made it back to the ship a bit early! So went and got out of our wet clothes (it was snowing off and on while we were out) and headed for the bar on deck 7 where Joe had a whisky and I had hot chocolate. The entertainment tonight was ‘Hurtigruten Lucky Numbers!’ With the tour organiser and hotel manager dressed in their night clothes. Hmmm. Well the tour organiser also had a bright red wig with horns, so probably a troll. Tomorrow morning around 9:30 we cross the arctic circle back into daylight!

And we’re actually getting a bit brighter. Almost had daylight today. We cross back over the arctic circle tomorrow morning.

We went up to the deck 7 bar and had a drink before dinner, had the really good seats at the bow, but couldn’t really see anything in the dark. Still nice drinks and sorted through the photos – the Norway album should be up to date, more of less! Then dinner and then a nap before getting up around half 11 to get dressed and ready for the concert in the Arctic Cathedral in Tromsø. Loads of announcements that when we came into Tromsø, the concert goers were to leave first and those with bags should wait. So I thought we needed to be on time due to other people attending. But nope, the group from the ship were the only ones there – so it was a concert just for us!

Lovely concert, really good music, and we really enjoyed it all. The cathedral is small and lovely, but unfortunately not a lot of time for photos! And when we left it was snowing heavily.

I forgot to say that Christmas day the tour organiser had organised that a group from the ship could attend the Christmas service in Vardø – the minister agreed to hold the service until they arrived. The group that went said it was really nice, they were made to feel very welcome and the service was done in Norwegian and English, and the minister kept it within time for everyone to get back to the ship. As the Captain, Chief Engineer, and Hotel Manager were all at the service as well the group figured the ship would wait! The Captain and Chief Engineer made sure they were the last to leave so they knew everyone was back on board. Put this in because the entire trip has been like that – special effort made to make sure we see and do things. So a private concert for us is becoming normal!

So we slept in today having not got to bed until gone 2am. The weather has been pretty awful – strong winds, snow and sleet squalls, and generally bleugh. But we had some light! And more tomorrow! We also went through Risøyrenna today, which is very narrow, Joe stood out on the bow and took photos. And coming into Sortland we went under a bridge where we ‘met’ the bus from the morning excursion crossing the bridge. Now that was timing! Tonight we’re doing a fishing village walk somewhere in Lofoten!

So we got off atVardø last night and watched the mad people who went ice dipping. There is a little wooden box thing with steps down and you’d go down into that and then dip yourself up to your neck to get the certificate. Not for us! But I did ask our tour operator where the fort was and got directions – at which point everyone standing on the dock headed off in the general direction (they actually headed in a slightly different direction, but still heading for where they though the fort was). We  waded through the snow to the fort and part of the way around the fort. It was too dark to do much else. At 4pm. I’m really struggling with time in the dark and the fact it was Christmas day so everything was closed just adds to my confusion!

Back onboard the ship we did laundry. Nice set up for a ship! And had dinner, which was leftovers, with Norwegian potato juice to finish. Or that’s what Joe called it. Google tells me it’s actually Akevitt (Aquavit) and drinking it told me it’s quite strong!

We headed back to our room and once our shoes were off there was an announcement of the lasso competition on deck 7. Joe and I laughed and thought about going up. So Joe got all kitted up and headed out and as soon as he was gone there was another announcement – northern lights! So I got into my outerwear in record time and out on deck 5 as I thought deck 7 would be crowded. The sky was lit up, but they were pale. Found Joe and we watched then a squall blew in – whale watching weather! We huddled together and watched the blur of the sky. When the squall blew over we saw the lights were still there and as we watched they brightened then started to swirl with red, yellow, and green. It was a wonderful display – huge and bright. We ended up staying out for quite a while watching the lights. And the lasso competition was cancelled because everyone was watching the aurora!

This morning we were up earlyish and had breakfast. At 10:15 they served an ‘energy drink’ on deck 7 as we passed the natural gas plant (the first one to export liquid natural gas in Europe). The drink was coffee, chocolate, and chilli and quite nice though a bit spicy! It was also quite thick and creamy.

We then arrived in Hammerfest where we had a tour. We thought it was a walking tour but it was by bus and only about a dozen people on it. The guide wasn’t the best, but we got a good look around the town, including the Meridianstøtten (Meridian monument), a traditional Sami house, and up to the lookout where we could see the whole town below us. It was worth it for those things alone as we’d never be able to walk to them in the time we had. Also everything in town was closed. However, all along the main street the pavements were completely clear. They were slate and electrically heated to keep them clear of snow and ice. Our guide also told us that the town was surrounded by fencing to keep out the reindeer; however, some do get into town (those must be the flying ones) and when they do the mayor gets on his pink scooter and rounds them up to get them out of town. We were welcomed to come back in summer to watch the mayor round up reindeer!

Back onboard for lunch then I napped while Joe wandered around and got photos. At some point around 4 or 4:30 (I did say it was hard to know what time it is in the dark! And it’s almost always dark, just a brief period of time when the sky is blue, sort of a twilight blue) we got an announcement about northern lights. So up and dressed and outside again to stand on the bow (or as close as we can get) and watch the sky. Another thing about watching the lights – the sky is full of stars!

And just now they announced : “Ladies and Gentlemen, this is for George Michael” and then Last Christmas started playing. So sitting here listening to Last Christmas.

Up earlyish this morning and definitely a white Christmas. Trying to remember if I’ve ever had a white Christmas and I don’t remember any. Bound to have been somewhere with snow before though. Of course it wouldn’t be Christmas without Slade and Merry Christmas Everybody. So I’m getting dressed and sure enough there’s a loud ‘It’s Christmas!’ Joe had put it on his phone and was playing it.

We docked at Kirkenes and headed out to the bus to go dog sledding. It was a large group so we were split into three groups of 20 and Joe and I were in the last group. It was based at the Snow Hotel, so we had a look inside (but didn’t get to the bar unfortunately) and then went over to see the reindeer (lovely white one), then to see the dogs and finally onto the sleds for a ride around. Very bumpy! But fun. We then had to hurry back onto the bus and back to the ship – so no time to stroll around for a look around. Maybe if we go again!

So Kirkenes is right at the Russian border. So close to the border that Joe got a ‘welcome to Russia’ text on his phone as it picked up a Russian cell tower.

Back onboard with loads of new people doing the southern journey. We’ll have a walk around Vardø around 4pm then do laundry. So an exciting end to Christmas day!